Green Issues In Design: Chapter I

                                                                                                          6

Chapter I.

Design Responsibilities

"By design, then, we do not mean a drawing made in his studio by the designer-a design for something-but rather the thing itself but with that drawing, the preceding idea of the thing and the succeeding process of manufacturer all implicit" Antony Bertram, Design in Everyday things: The BBC(1937). (Neil Maycroft(2018)University Lincoln handout sheet course MA Design)

While researching design responsible companies who have similar believes in eco conscious philosophy I discovered Patagonia who include Environmental issues within their design parameters. 

Patagonia insight : The outdoor clothing company and climbing gear founder Yvon Chouinard is a good example of how a business can consider an ethical business strategy. It turns over currently $230 Million and is known as one of the most environmentally responsible corporations on the Planet. 

In his own words "I realized that our crisis was a microcosm of what was going on all over the world. The world watch institute's state of the world report for that year 1991,stated "With annual output of 20 trillion, the global economy now produces in 17 days what took an entire year to generate in 1900"."Already,economic activity has breached numerous local, regional and global thresholds resulting in the spread of deserts, acidification of lakes and forests and the build up of green house gases. If growth proceeds along this line of recent decades it is only a matter of time before global systems collapse under pressure" ( Chouinard, Y(2006.)from Patogonia Inc founder and owner over  three decades ago ring true within today's climate changing world. One other interesting part of Patogonia is there investments in environmental grass roots conservationist activities(donating $22 trillion to environmental foundations since 1985).

Shopping the Eco Way. It is accurate to suggest that everything we purchase,own thats made will have an environmental impact , therefore one has to ask the question whether you are producers or consumers. Is this purchase necessary? Have I already got this? How can I impact less on the environment? If I am buying something how long will it last? How will I recycle it? when it wears  out or breaks.

Design Philosophy incorporating  ecology based issues can be used whenever a new design is being concepted, thought through and produced, they are guidelines and include updating and developing new strategies to improve eco conscious values of each product.

Including environmental ethics within a design manifesto is a useful design process to go through to encourage a symmetry of ethics which builds a design profile for each design creating a symbiosis  of choices to create cohesion for each design or range for each season.

The following design values and philosophy was developed for Patagonia inc and presented to the board by Jerry Mander (a member of the board of directors in 1991 an author and deep ecologist)

"Our Values: We begin with the premise that all life on Earth is facing a critical time, during which survivability will be the issue that increasingly dominates public concern. 

( Appendix IV.A full explanation)

Inspiration came from the mountains in Patagonia name

Early Patagonia Inc Smithy work

    

        Cultural and Social Philosophy

While researching traditional textiles and anthropology I have noticed how traditional cultures like to practice environmental sustaining practices within their environment for future seasons and for the future of their culture, i.e native American Indians, Inuit's ,Amazonian tribes and many more native cultures of the world. Unfortunately western society has not kept to these traditions and since the industrial revolution has been polluting the world. Because of this some designers and manufacturers have built in their own ethical philosophy.

The philosophy stated in appendix IV was created by Patagonia Inc to help build a brand and keep to their original outdoor ethical approach to life style choices that limits their carbon footprints as much as possible. 

The David Attenborough Effect

The new phrase which is moving through the media is "the Attenborough effect" since his most recent documentary series blue planet showing the devastation that plastic waste in our oceans is having on our wild life through societies views and reactions to his documentaries. This series has helped people to make better choices when purchasing products, re thinking their views on sustainability and environmentalism. The episodes showed a mother whale carrying her dead baby around for days(killed through plastic waste being consumed by the mother whale and it's effect on her milk production) baby birds eating plastic waste, coastlines full of pollution. Their are numerous action groups that have joining pages on the internet encouraging people to protect our oceans and prevent plastic waste.

A recent report by GlobalWebIndex shows that 53% of people surveyed in the US and UK have reduced their single use plastic over the last 12 months.

"Over the past year, the fight against plastic pollution has gained momentum around the world. More than 60 countries have taken action to restrict plastic production and consumption, major multinational companies have invested in alternatives, and ordinary people have spearheaded ocean clean-ups. And now the movement he helped to grow is driving fundamental change at legislative level. The UK government is currently consulting with plastic experts to develop polices to improve recycling rates and reduce plastic production, according to Geoff Brighty, the technical director of plastic Oceans. " It is has really crystallised in the government's mind that the public consciousness has moved to a place where we don't want it to affect our ecosystems,Brightly said"(GlobalCitizen.org by Joe McCarthy and Erica Sanchez .accessed 28/07/19). Appendix XV and Appendix XVII include market research on new emerging design innovations and predicted design future concepts.

Traditional collage was adapted using photoshop negative positive effect to use within tote bag lining. The pattern represents carbon footprints and the desire to save our environment.(my daughters foot print taken when she was a baby)

Hand made collage to create pattern repeat. I have since learnt how to pattern repeat using photoshop applications, however to gain initial concepts I still use my sketch book cut and glue to gain inspiration initially.

                                      Plastic Waste

Initial hand printing using old cast iron printing alphabet pieces used in old printing presses. Developed into a screen print to use as a slogan on the back of tote bags to encourage consumers to use less single use plastics.

There are a number of key debates occurring within our government including a white paper on the fashion industry and it's key effects on wastage and recycling of which can be read in full via the link Fashion and sustainability.

(https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm201719/cmselect/cmenvaud/2311/231102.htm)

Fashion & sustainability

Recommendation 1

1.We want to see a thriving fashion industry in the UK that provides decent work, inspires creativity and contributes to the economic success of the UK. The fashion industry’s current business model is unsustainable, especially with growing populations and rising levels of consumption across the globe. Over-consumption and climate change are driving widespread environmental damage. The exploitative and linear business model for fashion must change. The various parts of the fashion industry must come together to set out their blueprint for a net zero emissions world. This will require reducing their carbon consumption back to 1990 levels. Given scientists’ stark warnings on climate change and biodiversity loss, we need to fix fashion. (Paragraph 22).(Appendix VI:Fashion and Sustainability white paper:Houses of parliament whitepaperUK)

One of the key pointers in todays society within global issues concerning product design is the plastic waste situation that is currently occurring at this moment and also the problem of all the plastic that has ever been produced is still on the planet, taking hundreds of years to decompose if ever!

 The pollution of our planets eco system and the fact that plastic can be found in every part of our oceans entering our food change and effecting climate change through the erosion of our natural habitat.Via the sequential removal of oxygenated plants and animals to effect draw down processes removing the reduction of carbon dioxide and other harmful gases.Appendix IX contains a scientific paper on Marine Plastic pollution and current and future trends on plastic pollution in our rivers and oceans across the globe.

One of the key factors that scientists have recognised is the ever increasing rubbish dumps within key areas of our oceans. The Great Pacific Garbage dump, it's current size as big as Alaska or France.

   Below is a short clip showing and describing the Great Pacific Garbage Dump

Climate Change a Global Challenge.

                                                        Climate Change

Antarctica Ocean  Santuary Campaign image of a Whales Tail photographed by Jiri Rezac

Climate change is know effecting us all, the world is in a global warming process that scientists, governments and the general public are now aware of. The Antarctic is melting at a rate that is not sustainable which is why a conservation area is needed to be created in this area plus global plans to reduce global warming via a number of different strategies. Presently their is a Southern Ocean whale sanctuary established.This was set up in 1994 via the IWC (International Whaling Commission). However the Japanese government is arguing that it is contravening international conventions for whaling regulations.
What is being proposed is the biggest ever ocean sanctuary on earth within the Antarctic.
The campaign which is being spearheaded by Greenpeace is to increase its present sanctuary which is 50 million square kilometers adding another 1.8 million square kilometers.
If you would like to get involved and sign the petition go to help-create-an-antarctic-sanctuary

Ecology Evolution

My project is an exploration of the natural world, looking at the way natures resources are depleting and how ecology is developing and where it should be heading in order to create a better future for our planet. I will be integrating traditional and digital art to create new textiles and wall art.

Part of my project development is about my own awareness of how my personal choices can help in some small way to reduce my personal carbon foot print and in some way through visual imagery help to encourage others to push for more savings in how we all live and to push for a new bigger Antarctica Sanctuary in order to save the area and all living creatures that live there.

what-if-we-never-started-hunting-whales

                                  Natural Dyes and Ink Development

Using natural processes in designing is part of my project using natural forna to make colours for printing and dying is part of my approach to ecology design practice. I have therefore managed to find an allotment to start my process of printing and dying naturally. Growing your own produce can reduce carbon emissions and encourage others to do the same.
For the purpose of the printing process development I will be looking at forna that is abundant locally i.e nettles, acorns, horse chestnuts. Due to time constraints I may have to use dried flowers and possibly bought organic dye powder. Indigo dye is one natural dye process I would like to develop used in Asia and other natural dye formulas into days textile industry,it can be grown in England easily. It is used in Denim and is a dye that is traditionally exceptionable as a fad-able colour within fabric.

Fez: Morocco Historical Dye Complex: Still being used in the same way as previously in ancient times.    

                                               Tote Bag Developments.

This is the Lino that has been cut using fine and big cutting tool. I will print it onto fabric and also onto some paper. The design is one colour , Indigo onto natural in dyed and cream onto navy linen. Evaluation. It looks like it may need the whale fin bigger, I will find out better when I print it. The lettering needs to be a bit more formalized and the slogan could be improved in some way. The back of the tote could have more information ,swing tickets with more information about the amount of plastic in our oceans and giving actual detail and global pollution issues could be added , however developing eco inks and dyes is far more important than the visual imagery as it would have more impact on developing an answer to my inquiring question.  

Tote bag Manufacture.

The tote bag is madebon cotton canvas because its strong and eco conscious due to its natural properties and its degradable processes which do not effect wildlife in the same way as plastic.

I have been inducted into the fashion department production studio area were I have made up my first tote bag using a bagging out processes for the linning removing any seams showing. The lock stitched are brother and they have steam presses for pressing as you go through the manufacturing process this gelps with the quality and finish of the sample.

Tote bag sample 1. Cream canvas, linned in cotton with internal pocket for phone and pens.

Reworked Tote Bag Design.

Reworking previous design to include mare made style whale tale in a larger scale. Making the lettering more interesting taking inspiration from Rauschenberg poster designs. Keeping the general format and seagull. 

Almost Completed.

The new lino plate to improve on initial print for tote. Larger whale tail, improved waves and re worked lettering. Extension to task: Try a two colour lino print include white surf waves and highlight areas in white and indigo blue. Try other colour combinations black/grey, creams/ochres, reds/ creams.
Ethical Fashion Fashion
Ethical fashion its the new buzz word
for eco friendly clothing that embellishes social responsibilities. Responsible ethical fashion can equate exquisite design and quality without loosing touch with morality and ethical standards. Ethical fashion philosophy embraces the concept of creating beautiful designs
with ethical production practices as a reasonable choice to sustainability concerns about pollution and global warming. An ethical fashion collection means from fibre production to the finishing stitches and through to packaging needs to be eco-conscious using sustainable materials . 
A conscious effort has been made to respect the people involved and also for the  protection of our precious eco system has been carefully considered.

Ethical fashion philosophy can go further by adding ecological campaigning as part of the design content in order to evoke change,to make people aware of their own carbon foot print and persuade them to make changes to the purchase choices.

Below is the beginnings of a tote bag

Using block printing inks and a heavy     roller , inked lino previously cut  has been used to embellish the front panel of the fabric. Developing eco conscious biodegradable  inks is my next development. I intend to  develop new inks for printing using traditional none chemical compounds.           


This had been printed using a hydrolic printing press.Printing onto fabric means you need to use more presser to press into the fabric.This lino print is for a tote bag to encourage people to use less single use plastics for carrying shopping.

Evaluation. The whale tail could be a big bigger to add a bit more impact and also I think I might remove the foreshortening on the whale fin on the left. The ‘our’could be changed as it standing out more from the other lettering. 

Developments

This drawing has been made into a lino cut, I have noticed Antarctica had the c in the wrong place, however some of the lettering could br improved more.Also since changing my tools the background has changed and become less vivid so this also needs re doing. Positives are the whale tail is much better than previous print.

Print in white onto indigo linen fabric.

Tote bag design made in Fashion department, needs trinkets and button adding.

Embroidery added via hand embroidery machine. Adding red onto R as an onomatopoeia phrase representing the feeling of empathy towards saving Antarctica, helping to prevent climate change and saving endangered species by reducing waste within our oceans.
Colourways and fabrics for Tote bags

Calico fabric for economic price bracket for tote bag.

Linen fabrics for medium to high price bracket tote bag.


Up cycled buttons for large tote bag with fastening.

Pom poms for detail on tote bag.




Tote bags i.e bags for life are also key to preventing pollution, plastic bags are killing all kinds of different marine life including wales and turtles, broken down plastics are being eaten by sea birds right down the food chain to micro organisms that fish and sea mammals eat. These plastics eventually end up on our dinner plates.
I will be developing a series of images for eco conscious calico tote bags to improve wastage processes. It is worth checking when you shop if the plastic bags you are paying for our bio degradable. Some small retail outlets are know using fully biodegradable plastic bags including my local garden centre Reg Taylor's Hill farm Nurseries in Normanton Southwell.


           Project Organic Fruit and Veg for Organic Dyes.

Southwell Community Allotment has been producing organic vegetables, fruits and flowers for many years. I have had the fortunate luck to have been given one on an annual rental at a very reasonable price. I will be growing produce on it and using  natures beautiful palette.Using food waste and plants to create natural dyes and inks. Colour varies depending on the weather and therefore using nettles, can be darker in colour or lighter depending on the season.

Project : Allotment needing a lot of de brambling.

wild raspberries need to be kept.

Local practice of covering ground is to prevent weeds growing ready for sowing

Indigo flowers have been used for centuries , I will be planting some next year in ready for harvest later in the year. Dried flowers can also be stored in jars for organic dyes and inks. I may have to use dried as my project proposal dead line is sooner than harvesting would be.The other line of inquiry would be to use local wild flowers and weeds like nettles which creates a lovely natural pale khaki/biscuit shade.Dyes from plants don't always give the same colours and can  also change depending on the weather for the season. Dyes from nettles can also change. Nature dye material can be dried and stored and used rather than using freshly cut. Barks, lynches, marigolds, hedgerow brambles and acorns can be used. Dahlias are also good for dying, the is a very big allotment that specializes in dahlias of which many over with will end up in compost.I may need to ask if I could have some that are wilted and no longer of use to make dyes and also to dry for further development.

                                  My Allotment
The images are of my allotment.I will be showing up dates on how my project of organic fruit and vegetables growing is getting on. The initial photos of my overgrown allotment and photos after a couple of hours of clearing .

Dried out weeds could be useful for dyes.

After cutting back weed a pond is found including local frog freddo, linning of pond may need mending. There is plenty of plastic sheeting on the ground that could be up cycled for this role. Rosehip bush could also be a good source of dye for printing inks.