Brief over view of project

Poster for MA Show

The Poster used for the end of project show at University Lincoln.

MA studio in Design end of Degree Show June 2019.

Ecology Evolution Project

My project is about green issues, I have choice to develop my own inks for printing and have experimented with dying fabrics to find the right pigments using natural resources. This idea has come from the need for eco conscious values to be embedded into my art work.

The objective for my art work is to encourage social impact in regard to ecology issues linked to our depleting natural world within our oceans and more specifically protecting Antartica. My point has been to use visuals to encourage consumers and viewers to seek a deeper understanding of their own carbon foot print and to change their consumer behaviour to use less single use plastics.

The main issue I have decided to use within my set work is the current climate change emergency and have choicen a Green Peace Campaign ”Antarctica Ocean Santuary”

Imagery has been based around oceans and the need to save the worlds ecology and especially the need to reduce single use plastics.

I am hoping to encourage green living and to awaken the need to protect Antarctica via the need for everyone to consider their own carbon footprint and reduce their single use plastic purchases.

I have chosen a blog to record all my developments of which print making has been my main area of interest. The blog has been converted into a book which has become the main focus of my project showing my design journey in a comprehensive format.

Book conversion from my blog.(naturesarmour.blogdpot.com)

Side view of blog to book .MA Journals:Ecology Evolution.

Inside cover of MA Journals: Ecology Evolution.

Inside of MA Journals:Ecology Evolution 

Journal pages showing sketches :design developments.

Inside pages of blog to book conversion.

MA Journal : Ecology Evolution showing publishing lay out.

MA Journals Ecology Evolution : Printing developments.

I have used natural resources in my work and believe if a product can return to the earth without too much pollution ie compostable materials, then it’s a lot less environmentally destructive than man made plastics which take hundreds of years to decompose.

My MA project is about looking at how natural resources are depleting and how ecology is developing in order to create a better future for our planet and how traditional art can be intergrated within digital technology to create new imagery that encourages consumers to think in a more eco conscious value and by doing this can help with the reduction of carbon emissions to draw down climate change to save Antarctica from disappearing.

Eco Evo:Green Issues

Images of MA Show and MA Journal.

By Victoria Meadows

MA Design : Dissertation 

                                              History of Conservation of Nature

The beginning of conservation and respect for nature can be seen through history starting from early history of mankind when nature’s wildlife and seasons were incorporated into early religions i.e Sun gods, sacrifices to improve weather changes and harvests. Customs and ancient ceremonies to pay homage to the earth’s natural surroundings can be seen through different cultures around the world.

Specific laws were created in medieval times to protect woodland for the pleasure of nobility and royals. After the Norman conquest large areas of land were annexed using forest laws.

Some of the first conservation areas of the early medieval period were granted mainly so that landowners and royalty could hunt freely. Knowing there would not be any depletion of game in their private woods by making it illegal to poach on the kings lands

Forest laws were extended in the 18^th century called the black law, hanging people for encroaching on to Royal hunting grounds. These laws extended to overseas colonies of which the remnants are used to create conservation areas today. Re wilding is a relatively old theory which is being used today to create new Natural areas of land to help reach  drawdown to prevent global warming

Conservation needs of today go far more than previously has ever seen. Individuals can become a movement of people activism, campaigning and demanding change through group discussions and using the world web. I have challenged this theory through my blog "NaturesArmour,blogspot.com and through my dissemination I added my blog to social media, it is also currently life on line. I have received enough feedback to increase my page reviews by adding to community blogsites to increase awareness of climate change, lifestyle choices and green design strategies within design.

                                 Environmental Impact of Humans

Historically humans have been having an impact on our environment since evolution evolved our planet and homo Sapiens became the super power race against most predators. When as hunters and gathers humans started to farm and domesticate animals we can see climate change being effected by mankind’s lifestyle. 

During the late 19^th century within Industrial Revolution a number of Artists and critics voiced their concerns. In regard to pollution. (“If only the geologists would let me alone, I could do very well, but those dreadful Hammer’s! I hear the dink of them at the end of every cadence of the Bible verses”.(John Ruskin, letter to Henry Acland 1851).

 As the textile designer, poet and social activist William Morris explains the need that "Nature and History Morris asserted were, or at least ought to be, the two great teachers of mankind. This statement shows in part Morris's environmentist values and is connected to the pre-Raphaelite art movement that includes the aesthetic movement. His hatred for the industrial revolution is well documented. When researching textile history we can see great changes during the industrial revolution created by Britain's technical innovations resulting in social change.

                                          

        Textile Technologies/Handmade

 Within the twentieth and twenty-first century we are seeing new transformations of design, manufacture and consumer interaction. As it is explained in The Handbook of Textile Culture "In  a post-industrial culture the artisanal, material cultures once marginalized as lacking the authority of symbolic meaning, or the capacity for abstract thinking, are becoming reconsidered as a source of knowledge. Integrating the techne-technique and technologies of manufacturer by hand and machine". A new collaboration of the old and the new, techniques, philosophies and theories of knowledge. 

                                  

        Design Choices and Lifestyle Issues

“The Romantic movement which included aestheticism were protesting over the destruction of idyllic rural life for a world of dark Satanic Mills written in William Blake’s 1804 poem.” (Lewis and Maslin.2018.206). One of the earliest environmental needs based action campaigns was created by the artist/poet Sir William Blake. He started an organization called the coal smoke abatement society which was founded in Richmond in 1898 which resulted in the smoke abatement Act including soot, ash and gritty particles.

Another well known campaign that ended in a riot was in Nottinghamshire when “artisanal textile workers broke machines to defend their wages against further declines. Known as the Luddites they began in Arnold, Nottingham, on 11^th March 1811, with over two thousand people marching and then smashing sixty-eight spinning frames”.(Lewis and Maslin,2018.206). 

Scientific revolution sprung into the new industrial world. An example of this is when in 1824 Joseph Aspdin patented a chemical process known as Portland cement which has since revolutionized building techniques. Electricity, the invention of the light bulb and the use of fossil fuels have contributed to today’s global warming.

A lot of new knowledge came out of the 19^th century including Darwin’s theory of evolution which set religious philosophy against scientists in fact Darwin did not publish his papers due to concerns via ridicule from religious leaders.

"In their seminal work, Cloth and Human Experience, Weiner and Schneider(1991) remark that 'complex' moral and sexuality, find ready expression through cloth. Indeed they argue, 'cloth has further organizational of social and political life', evoking ideas of tying or bringing together many different kinds of publics whether through the banners of the Suffragettes and Trade Unions or the wrapping of the fences at Greenham Common, or the laying down of Aids quilt or through addressing issues and relations that are not pre-given through kinship but are produced in gatherings and cooperations." (Jefferies.J.Wood Conroy.D.Clark.H(2018)The hand book of textile Culture.Bloomsbury.)

              

                                   Carbon Dioxide Spike

 Scientists are working across the globe

 researching how environmental strategies across the globe are being carried out in order to keep current and develop new emerging  techniques to reverse global warming. 

http://climate.nasa.gov/evidence(14.08.2019 3.00pm)this graph is based on the comparison of atmospheric samples contained in ice cores and more recent direct measurements, provides evidence that atmospheric C02, has increased since the industrial revolution.

   Ocean Theme

Oceans and sea creatures have been depicted within art and design since ancient Greeks and Romans and other ancient cultures, tribes and religions. I have chosen to use oceans, wildlife, natural flora, nautical imagery as my focus in order to improve knowledge of conservation and marine ecology of our oceans. The oceans contain a huge variety of life recent estimations conclude their are up to 2 million species found in and around coral reefs, the sea produces around half of all oxygen we breath( thanks to phytoplankton, tiny single cell ocean plants). The ocean also sequences large amounts of dangerous carbon dioxide. The ocean regulates our climate, cool waters soak up heat from the sun, they are a big part of our life support system. It is estimated that that 8 million tonnes of plastic waste is dumped in our oceans and it is set to double by 2025

Environmentalists

Ocean biologist Jacque Cousteau (1910-1997) was an inspiration when I was growing up and also for many people interested in ocean environmental and conservation issues.

Recently Jaques Cousteau’s grandson has been part of a series of documentaries highlighting environmental and conservation issues of our planets oceans. He specializes in oceanography which is looking into scientific aspects of our oceans to better understand what is happening due to pollution and global warming issues.

His grandson has recently also highlighted concerns in regard to melting ice gaps in Antarctica and has explained present forecasts are not accurate.

This graph by Nasa on line shows up to date figures going back to 1979.

                  

                                                                A clip from CNN News on Jacque Cousteau

Chapter II :Design Development.

                                                                                                                                            7

Sebastian Copland. photograph

Chapter II: Design Developments

"What it lies in our power to do,it lies in our power not to do"(Aristotle, Nicomachaen ethics 350bc)

The Tote bag "Protect Antarctica"

Design philosophy incorporating ecology based issues can be used whenever a new design is being concepted, thought through and produced, guidelines include updating and developing new strategies to improve eco values of each product.

Frozen World :David Attenborough

A detailed view of the natural world of Antarctica

Inspiration Incubation stage

Sebastian Copland Antarctica the vanishing north.

While researching ideas for my project I came across a book that gave me large amount of inspiration, a pictorial book of Antarctica: The vanishing landscape by Sebastian Copland. The following information was sourced from this book.

'Sebastian Copland 'is a photographer and environmental advocate using messages of urgent global significance for the world to revue and understand. His book Antarctica which he produced with Sir Richard Branson won him a Professional Photographer of the year award in 2007. Sebastian has been an international speaker of climate change crisis for many years. He has been warning of systemic transformations taking place in the polar regions from anthropogenic activities and their geographical consequences.He is also an explorer and has been listed in the worlds top 50 explorers globally. Copland has led expeditions across the Artic sea, Greenland and Antarctica and has reached both poles on foot. He has also produced documentary films including the North Pole and Greenland.(Appendix XI : explains methods and ethics including a message from Sir Richard Brandon who help fund his book)

Arctica photographed by Sebastian Copland.

Environmental social and economic delicate global systems need to be addressed, new solutions for ever increasing green issues for sustainable outcomes are necessary today and for the future.Identifying other drivers of consumerism i.e beauty, morality , humanity and well being . Finding a wider spirit of human endeavour which reaches the masses in order to make environmental changes within problem based waste i.e single use plastics and its devastational progression on our oceans and wildlife, resources and the global contamination of chemicals has been a driving force for my project.

Artic Deer photographed by Sebastian Copland

Skull by Sebastian Copland.

Product Durability

Making a good quality , strong piece of clothing takes an element of excellence, this for me includes longevity of design, the ability for the product to be used repeatedly which includes durability. Within my design project test samples the tote bag produced included strong fabric which was double thickness due to it being completely lined in the same fabric, a lot of back stitching to secure threading and secure straps.

Original Sample without interfacing in straps, showing creasing.

Original Sample without interfacing in straps.

Well worn test sample showing strength of strap including interfacing.

Second sample tested with interfacing shows a more durable strap.
The question of how long a product will last adds more eco value to each item ,less landfill means less methane, less carbon monoxide. Initially production energy levels in regard to product manufacturer against the longevity of a product, lowers the overall carbon footprint. If a designer chooses not to be associated with fast fashion, this might include designing a product with an historical classic way without a fashion fad which could shorten its use. Designing something classical that would precede many seasons, nautical themed products tend to have longevity and progress through seasons. Something nautical whether it's clothing or other products tend to withstand fashion fazes due to it's ability to re trend.  A product which has durability needs to also have imagery that will last through possibly decades of wear. These sorts of products have large life cycles and can greatly reduce their predicted carbon footprints and are the most eco-conscious for this reason. When comparing carbon footprints of products it is worth recognising for example, when looking at the carbon footprint of a plastic bag against a tote bag. A plastic bag has a much smaller carbon footprint than a cotton tote bag, it uses less energy, it's much lighter, includes less materials etc.

While researching this area, I came up with a question that needs to be addressed and it is this, the destruction of habitat and wildlife due to plastic pollution is not included in the carbon footprint of a product. The amount of sequential oxygen losses are not accounted for. The devastation that plastic effects have on our oceans also isn't added to the carbon footprint of a product.The following information adds weight to my thinking, sourced via the-verge.com by Alessardia Potenza.
Initially my thoughts were dashed in regard to whether a cotton tote bag is more environmentally less impacting than a plastic bag. A recent report published by Demarks Ministry of environment stated that plastic bags are better for the environment than organic cotton totes. A study published in 2011 by the UK environmental agency reached the same point of view.
All these studies relate to the life cycle of a product and don't include other impacts like ocean plastic and the environmental impact of pollution. It is therefore important to make a point in regard to what impact on the environment you as a consumer or a designer are concerned with. "You have to be cautious about drawing big conclusions".( Appendix VIII)
"Plastic Bags, It can take between 400 and 1000 years for plastic bags to decompose. A number of UK retailers have recently introduced degradable carrier bags. These bags are made from plastic which degrades under certain conditions or after a predetermined length of time. There are two types of degradable plastic: bio-degradable plastics, which contain a small percentage of non oil-based material, such as corn starch; and photodegradable plastics, which will break down when exposed to sunlight.
There are a number of concerns over the use of degradable plastics. First, these plastics will only degrade if disposed of in appropriate conditions. For example, a photodegradable plastic product will not degrade if it is buried in a landfill site where there is no light. Second, they may cause an increase in emissions of the greenhouse gas methane, as methane is released when materials biodegrade anaerobically."( http://www.niassembly.gov.uk/globalassets/documents/raise/publications/2011/environment/3611.pdf. 
Further more the survey's of which numerous countries have described plastic bags having less carbon footprints than paper or Cotton is purely explaining the carbon footprint cost and not other more important impacts on the environment and wildlife as a whole concern and the sequential losses of oxygenating plants and wildlife, large environmental arenas like our oceans that the earth depends on are not taken into account. Appendix IX explains the environmental impact of Marine Plastic pollution in scientific detail giving rise to the new emerging debate of environmental issues connected to climate change and what advices in Green Design issues can come from a better understanding of these key issues.
 The following advice concerning the National Northern Ireland Assembly comparisons between carrier bags survey" All bags have an impact. The best solution would be to use a cotton bag several hundred times, probably using it constantly for years. If you are not going to do that, a plastic bag – reused as a bin liner – is the next best option, better than paper. Avoid accepting a plastic bag unless you need one, though." (appendix X)
From my research and dissemination review.  I realised that there are new and emerging fabrics that are made from new types of natural fibres and technology based fabric developments that have a better carbon footprint which includes lower carbon footprints without polluting and killing wildlife.(Appendix X : Most popular new fibres). Also important is how the fashion industry deals with this emerging need for sustainability. The government has created a number of official white papers on the green issues within the fashion industry (Appendix IX has relevant key points).

Since the UK government has issued a fee(tariff) to purchase a plastic bags when purchasing in stores across the UK plastic bag use has dropped by 87% creating a much better environmental impact than previously before plastic bag tariff introduction was applied. Plastic straws have also been banned adding more environmental eco conscious application within our consumer world. Alterative plastic bags that are bio degradable can be purchased as an alternative, however some of these bags only bio degrade at high temperatures. Sourcing organic bio degradable plastic bags are the best alternative's
to petroleum based plastics.

Finished sample showing box stitching.

Production techniques

 Previously within my own fashion business ,I have set up a Jones brother industrial lock stitcher to back tack automatically 7 times, this created very strong products. Within the university fashion department I used similar machines however I needed to back tack without this automated system, after testing a tote bag i.e wearing and using it , I noticed some stitching un doing and concluded if in production this system wood be needed to maintain durability quality. I also chose to bag out my products which reduced the need to overlock each piece which in turn reduced the electricity use, however this process did mean I used more fabric. I believe durability increases a products life spam so even though it makes the carbon footprint higher valued, long term use would reduce it's impact on the environment.

While testing the tote bag I realised I would need to add a thick interfacing as  the straps became thin after a short period of time. This also made the straps more comfortable, increasing its functionality. One of my first criteria's for the tote bag was the length of the strap.I chose a length that made its wear ability dual purpose so it can be worn over the shoulder or hand held.
The size of the tote bag is also important,I chose two sizes, one medium to hold an A4 folder and books or small food shop.
Larger for more objects or larger shop with a button fastening.
The idea for a tote bag come from the desire to advertise the blight of the Antarctica ice melting and wildlife sanctuary which is currently needing to be much bigger than it is at the moment. Adding current environmental issues of concern to inform consumers on the impact single use plastics have on the earths ego system and wildlife. I chose the words " Quit Plastics" a reflection on addition problems as single use plastics is a convenience addiction( social behaviour normal due to super markets currently using plastic bags)
"Designing from the foundation of filling a functional need focuses the design process and ultimately makes for a superior finished product. Without a serious functional product that although it may look great,is difficult to rationalise as being in our line-ie"Who needs it?"(Choval,Y,2006:93)

In the planning : When planning a design scheme with deliverables(finished designs for a deadline)it's always a good idea to make a con-stringency plan, the what if it goes wrong plan, the Murphy's law plan. The answer is when you near the end of a project and you have a deadline looming more often than not panic sets in , you get stressed and the work starts to go wrong. Finishing a project to make sure it gets finished properly means leaving at least 4-6 weeks extra time for finishing .This of cause turns into no time left usually, never under estimate how long something will take.  If we look at the psychology of it all , the insight analysis and the cognitive science we can find answers to this problem.

The making process: Shears for accuracy of cutting.

Description errors described through psychology based research written in the book "The design of every day things by Donald .A.Norman explains how human error effects the design usability of every day things. Errors within the design of an object can effect it's suitability for use. In the same token these human errors can occur during the design progress.
Loss-of -activation errors is a prime example that occurred during my product developments especially during the print making processes, leaving processes out, or forgetting to put them in.for example a quote from "The design of everyday things" "loss-of activation errors I have to go to the bathroom before I start working in the dining room. I start going there and realise as I am walking that I have no idea why I am going there. knowing myself, I keep going, hoping that something in the bedroom will remind me...……. I get there but still cannot recall what I wanted...….. so I go back to the dining room. There I realise that my glasses are dirty. With great relief I go back to the bedroom, get my handkerchief and wipe my glasses clean. One of the more common slips is simply forgetting to do something."
Developing Lino Printing While first visiting the print room I was fascinated with the Lino card on entering the workshop and realising there was no need for industrial machinery I could develop Lino printing at home as an artisan crafter. Initially I used an inexpensive cutter and tested a repeat pebble pattern using limited skills. Once I realised you could purchase better tools a bought three different sizes which help my skills improve and quickened the process. However through my research I have noted that there are numerous Lino artist including the renowned artist

Inspired by Rebecca Bathory photography for lino cuts.

Professional Lino Cutters

Advanced Lino cutters helped with speed and technique.

Initial sketch for tote bag lino print.

Replica whale tooth 18th century curved imagery depicting whale ship inspired me to create a tote bag Lino print in a folkloric style.

Initial first large Lino design for tote bag, requires more accuracy of technique.

Also the size of the imagery can be increased so there is less background.

Lino printed onto up cycled newspaper printing paper.

I developed better lettering by printed of lettering from my computer and adapting them.


I wrote the lettering the right way then I traced it in the reverse by tracing onto baking crease proof paper turning it over to create the reverse and tracing it onto link.

Inked Lino for printing onto paper which was then scanned and turned into a screen print.

This is a better development than the previous, however one or two more Lino cuts like this would have improved the final outcome. Time scale prevented me from achieving this.

Angie Lewin Pebble Beach: A highly skilled Lino cutting print artist.

Researching current Lino artists. Angie Lewin is a well established print maker her limited edition prints sell for approx. £300. My Linos are very simplistic and a need to develop this technique of the coming years would maybe equate to a more improved technique.
Within my project samples, my ink developments link more to green design issues within material processes ending in a more sustainable process for designing.I researched extensively through Pinterest visual library to gain insight into contemporary visionaries within different aspects of my project (Appendix XIII)

Screen printed samples from Lino cut design.


Values and Ethics for Creative practice.

Ethical philosophy  within design imagery links to morality. Morality is a decision which out of it you get personal values giving you a sense of purpose that drives studio work and personal conduct. Empathy for others, the expansion of care, the wanting to give customers values within working practice. These were the reasons behind the narrative.As I have discussed in chapter one using textiles to articulate a cause to protect the environment using a tote bag can encourage user to in directly advertise and promote issues of ecology while wearing and shopping.    

The screen used to print onto fabric, taken from a traditional Lino print

    As describes in by Hazel Clarke "it becomes evident how design relies not only on methods and techniques, but also on fundamental ways of conceptualising and bringing about change and improvement in the world, this applies, or should apply, to textiles as it does to any other area of design. New approaches to textile design are predicted therefore not only on the 'how' and the 'what' of design but the 'why'. It can be argued that design in general is even more fundamental to human life in the twenty first century than ever before."( Jefferies.J.Wood Conroy.D.Clark.H 2018)

Printing Workshop

Printing Workshop

The Technical introduction to print room machinery and materials was a great morning session. I've looked at different types of printing  skills materials and machinery . The print room is a wash with inspiring techniques to develop for print Art for walls , fabrics, book covers, personal letter heading etc.

I love the patina and mix of different handles showing the history of its practical uses , the lettering cabinet.

Vintage cast iron press evoking inspirations of historic printing concepts and practice.

Printing inks and screen printing presses.

Print room showing stacks of lino for print making.

Various tpyes of printing processes discussed including wall paper design.

            History of Lino Printing

“Linoleum was invented and used as a floor covering in the late 1800s. As printmakers using wood blocks looked for easier and less expensive ways of block printing, they turned to the new product, according to the Printmaking Dictionary. The word "linoleum" dates to 1863 when Frederick Walton of England combined the Latin word for flax, "linum," with the Latin word for oil, "oleum," according to India Crafts. In the late 1800s, linoleum was considered a poor engraver's wood and often used by amateurs or as a teaching product in schools, according to the Printmaking Dictionary. But when artists such as Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso started using linoleum in the early 1900s, its popularity grew.(14.1.2018 17.00 pm. https://linoprinting.weebly.com/history-of-lino-printing.html)”

 I am interesting in this technique as it gives a simplistic look

Selfie for Journal .

similar to a lot of Indian woodcarving fabric prints which I am interested in researching. Lino is a cheaper and less difficult method of carving printing images for printing onto fabric or paper. I have created a sketch book of ideas of my sleep project which I have renamed the Pebble Solutions( I will add images latter on in the blog). I have chosen to reflect 50's and 60's fabric print and Art work to create a contemporary feel for my new printing techniques project.
I started with a small A5 lino section and draw in pencil, my design idea. It this stage I am not worrying about repeat systems,just experimenting.The drawing in pencil onto the lion was a bit difficult to see, so therefore I will possibly use tracing paper or ink tracing paper underneath the pencil drawing.I have cut out my lino in a sketchy format as I realise I am new to this skill, I am happy with the sketchy Arty Crafty handmade feel of my first lino, however I will refine my skills moving forward as my next task will be a two colour block print with a repeat. The artist that inspires me who I am researching is Angie Lewin . I have a Pinterest account which shows a lot of my visual research.The image below is a number of old fashioned printing lettering which you can use to create an old fashioned print look.They can also be used individually as little hand held stamps.

These are very interesting cast letters which can be used for hand stamping, great especially as I am not good at lettering.