Appendix V : Organic ink developments

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Appendix V :Organic Ink Developments.

Making organic screen printing inks

Ingredients

Boiled water 1 lt

Sodium Alginate SH

Coconut oil

Liquid latex

Urea

Pigments for colour

Clove essential oil

Ingredient's and equipment for screen printing inks.

Equipment needed. I chose to do this outside to prevent fumes affecting me.

Mixing the seed weed extract.

Mixing and heating up screen ink. The first batch I made was too thin. When adding the sodium Alginate

You need quite a lot, however it needs to be sprinkled in very slowly for quite a while. I used a coffee whisker to help which I need to put new batteries in.

So it needs a few teaspoons to make it thick, not too sure if I will need to make more even thicker.

Add a drop of clove essence to stop the ink going off, also you need a gram of urea for every 250 ml you make. Adding the liquid latex last. Needing about 50/ 50 of alginate binder to 50 latex. This might change it depends how it prints.

I will add pigment dissolved in hot water 1 teaspoon 50/50 amount. Woad/Indigo pigment.

Indigo powder and Woad pigment

Indigo and Woad pigment for dying and ink making.

Ancient Japanese Lino ink recipe.

Considering health and safety when using natural oigments that can harm skin, eyes and lungs. Wear the right equipment.

Equipment and ingredients for ancient Japanese wood block inks

Equipment and materials 

Pigment for colour.

Gin

Natural starch adhesive.

Magnesium Carbinate to thicken

Spatula knife to mix ink.

Gloves, goggles, mask.

Dangerous ingredients if inhaled or touching eyes.

This is used to thicken ink so it spreads better and sticks to lino. In ancient times it wood have been a wood cut that the ink was being applied too.

Image of Ink development sketch book: ingredients

Recipe for Moku Hanga ink. Ancient Japanese ink.

Inks 

Liquid inks at University Lincoln

Screen printing inks from the university print room.

Image of wood block ink:better to use liquid pigment than power.

Ink used from print room, this ink is not eco conscious. I have made my base and I am going to replicate the colour by using indigo pigment.

Japanese Moluccan Hanga ink

This ink is an ancient recipe using non toxic ingredients which links to the green approach to designing and making.

It’s very simple to make mixing pigment 50/50 with gin and adding 1/2 teaspoons of Nori paste again an organic glue. Also one teaspoon of magnesium carbonate which is a bit dangerous if it gets on your eyes and also breathing in. Therefore goggles gloves and a mask are best used when mixing. I also worked outside were there was plenty of fresh air.

Using natural pigment liquid instead of powder shoul fix texture.

The texture of this ink needs more development.

Printed ink.

Ingredients and equipment for block printing ink.

Ingredients for Japanese ancient ink.

Local Gin used in Block printing.

                                        Shopping locally for ingredients helps with the reduction of climate change.

The Japanese ancient ink recipe.

More development needed to fix grainy effect of powered pigment. 

This shows the consistency of the ink.

Lino inked for printing.

The ink is not sticking to the laminate as it should.

Print using Moku Hanga ink.

Evaluation.

The ink I have made has a good consistency, however when it is rolled onto the man made Lino it isn’t rolling out well. My conclusion is that this isn’t working as well as I would like it too.

Powered pigments from art shop

A full range of powered pigments used normally for oil paints can be used for making screen printing ink

Initial screen print test

One pass with the squeegee

Two passes of the squeegee

third pass of squeegee is the past result.

More development in this area would be needed, however I might be able to block print these using my screen printing ink?

Squeezy showing ink consistency.

Mini screen used for fabric swatches for eco ink developments.

   Printing Inks Using Organic Materials.

 These pigments are natural pigments which I have found in a really nice Art shop on the way up steep Hill towards the Cathedral.

I have already bought my pigment for my inks, however if I wanted any more I would may go to this shop. They give 10% discount for students.

I am going to be making Indigo blue and Woad blue which ancient Celts used to use to paint their faces before and during battle.

I will be making Lino printing inks and screen printing ink. I will be using a small screen of my own as the screens at the university are large and also expensive so I am better off experimenting onto my own screen.

Testing screen printing inks, the above print was created using my own eco ink. The print has naturally aged faded out areas which are part of the print design to add a vintage feel. I have used a teaspoon of indigo pigment for this initial screen print. I passed the squeezy 3 times. One wasn’t quite enough, however twice was good but for a big area I would pass 3 times across screen.

The following images descend from one pass  of ink to 3 passes of ink.

One pass of ink.

Two passes of ink.

Three passes of ink. I am very pleased with how the ink is working. The colour I would like to get a bit darker blue so I will add more indigo. The consistency of the ink is really good. However I might increase the sodium alginate for a new batch just so it’s easier to pick up and put at the top of the screen for a new fload(one pass the the squeezy across screen).

            Ecology Evolution 

A brief section taken from my journal to explain some of the project concerns and issues I have been developing as part of my dissemination review.

The eco ink I have been developing needs a bit more developing. On small prints it works great on larger areas it tends to fade in areas. Therefore it’s not as coherent as I would expect. The up side to this is that it may well be a consistency problem which is easily fixed, more seaweed extract when being made. It could do with being less runny, it would make printing easier as well. I have added made two fade as part of the wearing scheme for this product as is the case for indigo denim jeans, wearing and fading is part of the products nature.

Indigo eco ink print ,hand made ink.

eco ink showing printing errors, rippling of fabric

Slightly un even, could be that the fabric was a bit creased more weight could have been used. However a thicker consistency of ink may well correct this problem.

The current alternative would be to buy eco printing ink and process designs this way until a better hand made ink is finalised. 

Eco ink purchased on line.

Eco ink which I have purchased as an alternative currently while I develop my own printing ink to a standard that would work on larger prints.

Undyed linen sample showing faded out effect of dye.

3 machine washes, this has faded the most likely due to the weave.

Calico 3 washes has stayed fixed the best out of all the samples.

Linen Tote bag

Linen tote bag small with pom poms.

 lining onside panels needs dark pattern extended.

undyed calico Tote bag.

Large linen tote bag.

Inside I have printed carbon footprint fabric. The side panels would need to have a longer strip of dark repeat due to the 3d element of the design requiring more repeat so that it follows the same length to create a straight line of print instead of it staggering .

Commercial wall papers.

Commercial wall papers for promoting the protection of Antarctica.

Commercial wall paper to create a value in regard to green issues and how to make a difference to protect Antartica by reducing climate change by changing life styles to encourage the reduction in single use plastics and other reducing and saving measures within individual lives.

These wall papers are designed for campaign office for climate change, libraries, schools colleges, universities and retail outlets ie coffee shops and cinemas.

The wall papers could also be used in marketing campaigns to promote eco evo products.

Carbon footprint wall paper

Appendix :IV Patogonia Inc

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Appendix IV :
Patagonia Inc :Values (let my people go surfing Chouinard.Y. Peguin Books.USA.2005)

Appendix III: Transcript Ten Billion.

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Appendix III

Transcript from Ten Billion: director-Peter Webb, writer- Stephen Emmott.

The Science Bit

The Epidermic Of Our Time.

"The eperdemic of our time is the lie of believing we have no ethical obligation to our planetary home "Theodore Roesak".

I have recently watched a documentary on Net flicks called "Ten Billion" from the Ten Billion years Documentary series. What it does is explains what is happening to our planets eco system. How our planets resources are depleting and what this means . It explains how climate change is destroying eco systems across the globe. While watching the first documentary I took notes and transcribed most of it as I was watching.

 One thing I did not know which is the case for most people currently living on the planet is what the complexities of pollution, climate change and species extinctions  really means and how much time do we have to change in order to put right all the pollution and destruction that is occurring at this current time in history. I have found the following transcribe very interesting and it helped me understand in clear non academic language what is happening and how we all can make changes, even if they are currently small changes understanding individual impacts is really important. The following paragraphs which is transcribed from the movie Ten Billion directed by Peter Webber writer and stared by Stephen Emmott clearly points out what is happening to our planet and what will happen to our planet moving forward. Stephen Emmott explains in detail the science and the economics for why it is important for each and everyone of us to consider our own unique carbon foot print and make changes no matter how small or large to help reduce carbon emissions to create a draw down state known as zero emissions level. A neutral balance of oxygen development and carbon emissions.

One aspect of natural habituate loss is in the complexities of biodiversity. 

Biodiversity

Loss of eco systems services is a threat to our survival and also other living species. Food production and the consumption of meat effect our biodiversity eco systems. Too much loss of biodiversity means our climate will become more and more unstable. 30% of all green house gases comes from food production. Increasing population means that we need a new a new food revolution. A new green revolution without chemical fertilizers/pesticides.

The need for more chemicals means too much water used. Buying food through chemicals uses increases in green house gases. Seven billion people live on our planet, water use within products has a hidden water value(what it takes in water to produce something).

For example it uses water to produce food. 9,000 litres of water to produce one chicken for food. 2,700 litres to create a bar of chocolate. 9,000 litres to produce a pair of pyjamas. This is completely unsustainable. 

                                                        

Fossil Fuels

Fossil fuels are accelerating climate change. We need to use other forms of energy. Big corporate companies are digging in the Atlantic this is viable due to climate change because the Antarctic is no longer covered in a thick layer of ice. Transport is also a problem due to climate change. cars cost approx £8,000. The real cost to the eco system is all the components are shipped, natural resources are used to mixed to create different products. All this is costly, environmental degradation, mining natural resources depleting bio diversity. 

Antarctica

70% of our sea ice is already been lost over the last 30 years. 600 tons of ice per year is being lost to the sea. Methane is being expelled in mass quantities which was previously frozen. Methane is many times more potent than carbon monoxide which is accelerating climate change even faster, creating serious problems.

All data formed so far is not predicting the real level of climate change and destruction that is immanent so far. All vegetation is being exposed to more carbon dioxide than ever before.

The Global Carbon Cycle

Plants, oceans,soils absorb 50% of our carbon dioxide emissions C02 .This maybe coming to an end due to human modification, every single component of the global cycle, deforestation, urbanization,food production, agriculture and changes in the chemical and ecological composition of our oceans.Ocean eradication and de-oxygenation.

Where are we heading?

What kind of challenges do we face due to our growing population. 40% of land is already being used for food. By 2050 the population is set to double. Cheap land is found via deforestation in order to feed the demand for food. This is an area as big as the United States of America(increases of our population to 10 billion people)

Fossil fuels/Pollution/Black carbon

Climate change is reducing our capacity to create food, the weather and soil degradation, pollution, plus loss of cattle 10,000s. Russia has previously had to place an embargo on grain which lead to fast increases in food prices in Asia and Africa creating food riots. Which ended in the Arab spring/civil and international conflict.

Military and Climate Change

The Military across the globe are now going to climate change conferences and meetings in order to calculate were possible wars could occur. This is because climate change creates adverse conditions for humans and political instability arises and conflicts erupt.

Water Supplies Reduced

Water stored in glaziers and snow is declining, projected to decline by at least enough to effect 6% of the population in china, Ethiopia ,India and Pakistan

.

Safe Increases

2% increase or less anything else will create a tipping point that will send our planet into serious catastrophe disasters and biodiversity will reduce. Areas like Bangladesh will be lost to climate change rising ocean levels. 2% increase in global or less anymore will create a catastrophic injury to our planet. 4%-6% increase in global temperature will create a tipping point that will send our planet into catastrophic disasters and biodiversity will reduce. Areas like Bangladesh will be lost to climate change, rising oceans.

Catastrophic Tipping point of Global Climate Change

This is already happening with the effects of serious weather changes. Alterations in global carbon cycles, eco systems degradation's , mass extinctions, increasing demands of water food and energy needs.

Currently the world is failing to do anything about it.

Technology is one way to find a solution. Technologize are way out of the problem is not going to be enough. Green energy technology is unlikely to be the main way out of climate change, this will take decades to implement.

Nuclear power seems to be currently the only answer, the problem is it's too expensive and voters don't like it.

Dealing with water shortages via changing sea water into fresh water is one solution, these however are not being processes. Geo energy maybe one solution, putting massive umbrellas into orbital environment to block out the Suns-rays this is not technically possible presently.

Behavior Change

Radical governmental action,however this would make politicians unfavorable,so therefore what happens is failure diplomacy.However some governments are implementing bans on plastic straws and single use plastics, so there is a glimmer of hope. 

Biodiversity loss Initiative

All our failings across 20 years of words and inaction, exploiting theories about whether climate change is true or not.

Solution Climate Change 

Governments exploitation of public opinion and scientific uncertainty, this is beyond doubt. The need for data in regard to what will happen and what will impact and indicating how much it will cost.In order to get behind action. Climate models will always fluctuate, public opinion is being exploited via politicians not being well informed is part of the problem, unprecedented effects on our planet that maybe unsolvable.West and the North of the planet are over consuming products, food and energy.Population decreasing via having less children is an important way to reduce climate change, if we continue at our current rate, there will be 28 Billion people on earth.

Potentially We Can Change

We can potentially change the devastation that we are in by changing our habits, it is a planetary emergency to avoid a global catastrophe . However many scientists believe change will never happen as the world is run via monetary values.

For example if we knew that a as-trod was hitting the planet and that 70% of our planet  living environment would be destroyed we would act. However the problem is ourselves the human culture that drives pollution, does not seem to be changing fast enough.Therefore its every bodies individual responsibility to but litter in the bin, recycle effectively,consume less and strive to be carbon neutral.(transcribed from Ten Billion:the movie: Director Peter Webber :Writer and star Stephen Emmott)

Appendix I: Marketing Green Issues

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Appendix I

Ecology Evolution:

Marketing Green Issues.

Extracts from my Design Journal.

Marketing ideas and current debates to encourage consumers to and viewers to seek a deeper understanding of ecology issues is part of the objective of my designing. These new and emerging strategies debates and current issues can be part of visual information on products including Wall Murals, fabrics, wall papers, tote bags and T shirts.

Hand Printed letters using old metal printing press alphabet.

The objective is to give social impact in order to make my work relevant to social needs, recognising global warming and more specifically keeping our oceans clean through conservation campaign strategies within my practical work. Connecting with a number of nongovernmental groups to encourage a deeper meaning of social change through global knowledge of various campaigns including Antarctica Ocean Sanctuary currently run by Greenpeace.

 Greenpeace is an environmental campaign organisation that is currently campaigning to prevent plastic pollution across our oceans, reducing plastic use via consumers is one way of doing this.

The Digital Revolution 

"The digital revolution and it's subsequent technologies have transformed the fashion designers work.Together they form a whole new dimension from within which to create. In particular Adobe's Photoshop and illustrator programs have placed in their hands the tools they needed to bring textile design, traditionally a separate discipline, into their own studios." (Doe.T.2013.12). Collaboration between disciplines is a key advancement in design development and so is the creative collaboration between traditional and contemporary as "Philip Delamore, director of The Fashion Digital Studio based at \London College of Fashion. As a practicing textile designer he has experienced the entire digital print revolution."Early on, I was working on digital prints as a consultant for designers.I would often have to un-digitize them- try to achieve a screen print look with the technique-because digital print was regarded as inferior and that wasn't what designers were looking for.The full blown digital aesthetics look to a long time to develop." (Doe.T.2013.12.)

Integrating  traditional and  digital textiles bridges a gap between industrial visions and traditional crafts. " One of the main issues of design is its use and how it is respected cultivated and progressed through time(product use and usability). In late industrial capitalism, designed, artifacts and the experience of them are sites through which people , to different degrees, live facets of their lives. People live and dream through design. Designed artifacts are, in this sense, materialized ideologies”(Laurel.2003.26).

As Dalke points out "Interdisciplinary is not a place to be reached but rather a commitment to a process of continually testing the value parts, experimenting with different ways they might be combined to make wholes, and using the resulting wholes to refigure the parts"(Dalke et el 2006:7).

Within my dissemination I can see links from my multi faceted project with my numerous test projects that a desire to collaborate different techniques not only to evaluate which is the most eco friendly but also to acknowledge and understand the attributes of each process within one collection in order to add interest  and uniqueness . I have learnt from my project 'Ecology Evolution' is how important the journey through researching visual imagery and theory  is as important and even more so than the actual completed achieved designs. The end products I have created linked intruitivily to the 'why',that is the desire to improve the ecology of the world through knowledge distrubution andd serve as examples of how design can inheret value and meaning for a broader subject.

"Liberty has been at the for front of commercial and art textile printing since the late nineteenth century. During that time it has collaborated with many designers, from Bill Blass to Vivienne Westwood. Emma Mawston, head designer at Liberty fabrics, beleves there is a place for a variety of techniques, so long as they are treated with equally high standards in terms of print mark and colour matching, as well as design. "I think digital printing and screen printing work wonderfully together in a collection enabling different effects and designs to be created. There are colours and tints that are not able to be created digitally only with screen printing and obviously vice versa" (Doe.T.2013.15)

Extract from Ecology Evolution Design Journal.

Image on forward pages we're created on photoshop using a basic effects button. This may well be useful for screen printing imagery on to paper and fabric.

  Adding text to explain damage via plastic pollution, lettering could be bolder using different text would work better.

Original photograph taken from aeroplane over Europe.

Photograph taken while flying across Europe.

Whale tail fabric full width plus repeated for fabric roll production.

Repeat pattern width of fabric standard 140 cms wide 200m long ideal for fabric curtains or wall paper. I have also created a number of different scales for wall paper, Muriel and also silk scarf repeat and velvet repeat for interior fabric.

 These fabrics were produced digitally through research within my dissemination I have realised even though currently Memaki digital fabric printers don't use eco conscious inks>However they use less ink than traditional print making " One factor that my determine where printing develops more generally is its environmental footprint. The digital printing process uses half the ink of screen printing methods and results in less waste being discharged.There is also no washing of screens or changing colours, so water consumption is reduced by almost half"(Doe.T.2013.13) The down side is the obsoleting aspect of machinery, new digital machines are constantly being designed for the industry , it isn't unusual for fabric companies to replace their machines every year. I am assuming their old machines would be sold off to other companies to reduce the impact on global waste.Otherwise an awful lot of machine waste finding itself in landfill and possibly inappropriate dumped in areas of the world, polluting our natural world.

Scale developments

I have chosen small repeat fabric scaled down 75% of original repeat for wall paper. I have chosen largest repeat for back velvet for cushions which has the text ’save’ the whale tail in the repeat as a large image single motif.

Digital printing onto silk.

This is the repeat whale tail repeat for the scarf in thin silk, the medium silk has run out which I wanted initially, however the thin is really floaty and light so either would have been good anyway. The repeat needs work as one side has a fatter element and when it is multi repeated it shows up as a block. This will be sorted out before finished print off. The velvet also needs washing twice and it needs to be dried naturally. I will be using my spin dryer to squeeze out any water and then a radiator to dry.

Velvet repeat whale tail.

Digital printing onto velvet.

Silk scarf fabric repeat whale tail.Using Memaki fabric printer. The printing of fabric using digital machines can for some feel a lack of spirt and individualism as described in the book Textile design in the digital age " Many devotees of traditional printing methods maintain that digital printing lacks the spirit and individuality of the more human processes. It can also miss the sincerity of print that has taken many stages to create. By way of response, designers have been enriching their digital prints with embellishment detailing and over printing." (Doe.T(2013.13).

Screen printing using photoshop.

This is the header card for my fabrics so they are displayed well as I am not submitting anything made up accept for a tote bag ,in order to try and reduce plastic use for the consumer to prevent climate change and to keep our seas and our Antarctica safe. The repeat pattern of printed baby feet which are my daughter feet printed originally in black white colour are added to photoshop with the save text which has been printed with old cast lettering from an old printing press.Put into photoshop to the scale I wanted and then added to a screen for paper which is different coarse of mesh  then for fabric printing. This was created initially onto a word doc for the Eco Evolution lettering and added to photoshop, it will also be paper packaging for tote bag and wall paper. If I have time I will create a swing ticket as well.

Section from one of my sketch books.

Developments to add to screen headers for fabric swatches and swing tickets and also wrapping packaging.

Screen for printing paper card headers for fabric swatches.

Screen print for paper and card. Using a number of colours white/cream, indigo on cream, linen/ cream,black/white,linen/ white.

Mixing colour inks for screen printing.

Linen colour/putty printing ink.

Created a really nice putty and deep navy for headers and swing tickets. Using up cycled newspaper print paper for packaging.

Printed paper with header and swing tickets.

Printed swings and header card for fabric ready for splicing. I have decided to create a eco ink swing in leather that I am up cycling from a leather sample book. I will be using the laser cutter.

Section 1 The Green Peace Story

                                            Section 2  The  ecology fight for a cleaner world

Section 3

Greenpeace International Promotion

Section 4 End of Japanese Whaling