Chapter II :Design Development.

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Sebastian Copland. photograph

Chapter II: Design Developments

"What it lies in our power to do,it lies in our power not to do"(Aristotle, Nicomachaen ethics 350bc)

The Tote bag "Protect Antarctica"

Design philosophy incorporating ecology based issues can be used whenever a new design is being concepted, thought through and produced, guidelines include updating and developing new strategies to improve eco values of each product.

Frozen World :David Attenborough

A detailed view of the natural world of Antarctica

Inspiration Incubation stage

Sebastian Copland Antarctica the vanishing north.

While researching ideas for my project I came across a book that gave me large amount of inspiration, a pictorial book of Antarctica: The vanishing landscape by Sebastian Copland. The following information was sourced from this book.

'Sebastian Copland 'is a photographer and environmental advocate using messages of urgent global significance for the world to revue and understand. His book Antarctica which he produced with Sir Richard Branson won him a Professional Photographer of the year award in 2007. Sebastian has been an international speaker of climate change crisis for many years. He has been warning of systemic transformations taking place in the polar regions from anthropogenic activities and their geographical consequences.He is also an explorer and has been listed in the worlds top 50 explorers globally. Copland has led expeditions across the Artic sea, Greenland and Antarctica and has reached both poles on foot. He has also produced documentary films including the North Pole and Greenland.(Appendix XI : explains methods and ethics including a message from Sir Richard Brandon who help fund his book)

Arctica photographed by Sebastian Copland.

Environmental social and economic delicate global systems need to be addressed, new solutions for ever increasing green issues for sustainable outcomes are necessary today and for the future.Identifying other drivers of consumerism i.e beauty, morality , humanity and well being . Finding a wider spirit of human endeavour which reaches the masses in order to make environmental changes within problem based waste i.e single use plastics and its devastational progression on our oceans and wildlife, resources and the global contamination of chemicals has been a driving force for my project.

Artic Deer photographed by Sebastian Copland

Skull by Sebastian Copland.

Product Durability

Making a good quality , strong piece of clothing takes an element of excellence, this for me includes longevity of design, the ability for the product to be used repeatedly which includes durability. Within my design project test samples the tote bag produced included strong fabric which was double thickness due to it being completely lined in the same fabric, a lot of back stitching to secure threading and secure straps.

Original Sample without interfacing in straps, showing creasing.

Original Sample without interfacing in straps.

Well worn test sample showing strength of strap including interfacing.

Second sample tested with interfacing shows a more durable strap.
The question of how long a product will last adds more eco value to each item ,less landfill means less methane, less carbon monoxide. Initially production energy levels in regard to product manufacturer against the longevity of a product, lowers the overall carbon footprint. If a designer chooses not to be associated with fast fashion, this might include designing a product with an historical classic way without a fashion fad which could shorten its use. Designing something classical that would precede many seasons, nautical themed products tend to have longevity and progress through seasons. Something nautical whether it's clothing or other products tend to withstand fashion fazes due to it's ability to re trend.  A product which has durability needs to also have imagery that will last through possibly decades of wear. These sorts of products have large life cycles and can greatly reduce their predicted carbon footprints and are the most eco-conscious for this reason. When comparing carbon footprints of products it is worth recognising for example, when looking at the carbon footprint of a plastic bag against a tote bag. A plastic bag has a much smaller carbon footprint than a cotton tote bag, it uses less energy, it's much lighter, includes less materials etc.

While researching this area, I came up with a question that needs to be addressed and it is this, the destruction of habitat and wildlife due to plastic pollution is not included in the carbon footprint of a product. The amount of sequential oxygen losses are not accounted for. The devastation that plastic effects have on our oceans also isn't added to the carbon footprint of a product.The following information adds weight to my thinking, sourced via the-verge.com by Alessardia Potenza.
Initially my thoughts were dashed in regard to whether a cotton tote bag is more environmentally less impacting than a plastic bag. A recent report published by Demarks Ministry of environment stated that plastic bags are better for the environment than organic cotton totes. A study published in 2011 by the UK environmental agency reached the same point of view.
All these studies relate to the life cycle of a product and don't include other impacts like ocean plastic and the environmental impact of pollution. It is therefore important to make a point in regard to what impact on the environment you as a consumer or a designer are concerned with. "You have to be cautious about drawing big conclusions".( Appendix VIII)
"Plastic Bags, It can take between 400 and 1000 years for plastic bags to decompose. A number of UK retailers have recently introduced degradable carrier bags. These bags are made from plastic which degrades under certain conditions or after a predetermined length of time. There are two types of degradable plastic: bio-degradable plastics, which contain a small percentage of non oil-based material, such as corn starch; and photodegradable plastics, which will break down when exposed to sunlight.
There are a number of concerns over the use of degradable plastics. First, these plastics will only degrade if disposed of in appropriate conditions. For example, a photodegradable plastic product will not degrade if it is buried in a landfill site where there is no light. Second, they may cause an increase in emissions of the greenhouse gas methane, as methane is released when materials biodegrade anaerobically."( http://www.niassembly.gov.uk/globalassets/documents/raise/publications/2011/environment/3611.pdf. 
Further more the survey's of which numerous countries have described plastic bags having less carbon footprints than paper or Cotton is purely explaining the carbon footprint cost and not other more important impacts on the environment and wildlife as a whole concern and the sequential losses of oxygenating plants and wildlife, large environmental arenas like our oceans that the earth depends on are not taken into account. Appendix IX explains the environmental impact of Marine Plastic pollution in scientific detail giving rise to the new emerging debate of environmental issues connected to climate change and what advices in Green Design issues can come from a better understanding of these key issues.
 The following advice concerning the National Northern Ireland Assembly comparisons between carrier bags survey" All bags have an impact. The best solution would be to use a cotton bag several hundred times, probably using it constantly for years. If you are not going to do that, a plastic bag – reused as a bin liner – is the next best option, better than paper. Avoid accepting a plastic bag unless you need one, though." (appendix X)
From my research and dissemination review.  I realised that there are new and emerging fabrics that are made from new types of natural fibres and technology based fabric developments that have a better carbon footprint which includes lower carbon footprints without polluting and killing wildlife.(Appendix X : Most popular new fibres). Also important is how the fashion industry deals with this emerging need for sustainability. The government has created a number of official white papers on the green issues within the fashion industry (Appendix IX has relevant key points).

Since the UK government has issued a fee(tariff) to purchase a plastic bags when purchasing in stores across the UK plastic bag use has dropped by 87% creating a much better environmental impact than previously before plastic bag tariff introduction was applied. Plastic straws have also been banned adding more environmental eco conscious application within our consumer world. Alterative plastic bags that are bio degradable can be purchased as an alternative, however some of these bags only bio degrade at high temperatures. Sourcing organic bio degradable plastic bags are the best alternative's
to petroleum based plastics.

Finished sample showing box stitching.

Production techniques

 Previously within my own fashion business ,I have set up a Jones brother industrial lock stitcher to back tack automatically 7 times, this created very strong products. Within the university fashion department I used similar machines however I needed to back tack without this automated system, after testing a tote bag i.e wearing and using it , I noticed some stitching un doing and concluded if in production this system wood be needed to maintain durability quality. I also chose to bag out my products which reduced the need to overlock each piece which in turn reduced the electricity use, however this process did mean I used more fabric. I believe durability increases a products life spam so even though it makes the carbon footprint higher valued, long term use would reduce it's impact on the environment.

While testing the tote bag I realised I would need to add a thick interfacing as  the straps became thin after a short period of time. This also made the straps more comfortable, increasing its functionality. One of my first criteria's for the tote bag was the length of the strap.I chose a length that made its wear ability dual purpose so it can be worn over the shoulder or hand held.
The size of the tote bag is also important,I chose two sizes, one medium to hold an A4 folder and books or small food shop.
Larger for more objects or larger shop with a button fastening.
The idea for a tote bag come from the desire to advertise the blight of the Antarctica ice melting and wildlife sanctuary which is currently needing to be much bigger than it is at the moment. Adding current environmental issues of concern to inform consumers on the impact single use plastics have on the earths ego system and wildlife. I chose the words " Quit Plastics" a reflection on addition problems as single use plastics is a convenience addiction( social behaviour normal due to super markets currently using plastic bags)
"Designing from the foundation of filling a functional need focuses the design process and ultimately makes for a superior finished product. Without a serious functional product that although it may look great,is difficult to rationalise as being in our line-ie"Who needs it?"(Choval,Y,2006:93)

In the planning : When planning a design scheme with deliverables(finished designs for a deadline)it's always a good idea to make a con-stringency plan, the what if it goes wrong plan, the Murphy's law plan. The answer is when you near the end of a project and you have a deadline looming more often than not panic sets in , you get stressed and the work starts to go wrong. Finishing a project to make sure it gets finished properly means leaving at least 4-6 weeks extra time for finishing .This of cause turns into no time left usually, never under estimate how long something will take.  If we look at the psychology of it all , the insight analysis and the cognitive science we can find answers to this problem.

The making process: Shears for accuracy of cutting.

Description errors described through psychology based research written in the book "The design of every day things by Donald .A.Norman explains how human error effects the design usability of every day things. Errors within the design of an object can effect it's suitability for use. In the same token these human errors can occur during the design progress.
Loss-of -activation errors is a prime example that occurred during my product developments especially during the print making processes, leaving processes out, or forgetting to put them in.for example a quote from "The design of everyday things" "loss-of activation errors I have to go to the bathroom before I start working in the dining room. I start going there and realise as I am walking that I have no idea why I am going there. knowing myself, I keep going, hoping that something in the bedroom will remind me...……. I get there but still cannot recall what I wanted...….. so I go back to the dining room. There I realise that my glasses are dirty. With great relief I go back to the bedroom, get my handkerchief and wipe my glasses clean. One of the more common slips is simply forgetting to do something."
Developing Lino Printing While first visiting the print room I was fascinated with the Lino card on entering the workshop and realising there was no need for industrial machinery I could develop Lino printing at home as an artisan crafter. Initially I used an inexpensive cutter and tested a repeat pebble pattern using limited skills. Once I realised you could purchase better tools a bought three different sizes which help my skills improve and quickened the process. However through my research I have noted that there are numerous Lino artist including the renowned artist

Inspired by Rebecca Bathory photography for lino cuts.

Professional Lino Cutters

Advanced Lino cutters helped with speed and technique.

Initial sketch for tote bag lino print.

Replica whale tooth 18th century curved imagery depicting whale ship inspired me to create a tote bag Lino print in a folkloric style.

Initial first large Lino design for tote bag, requires more accuracy of technique.

Also the size of the imagery can be increased so there is less background.

Lino printed onto up cycled newspaper printing paper.

I developed better lettering by printed of lettering from my computer and adapting them.


I wrote the lettering the right way then I traced it in the reverse by tracing onto baking crease proof paper turning it over to create the reverse and tracing it onto link.

Inked Lino for printing onto paper which was then scanned and turned into a screen print.

This is a better development than the previous, however one or two more Lino cuts like this would have improved the final outcome. Time scale prevented me from achieving this.

Angie Lewin Pebble Beach: A highly skilled Lino cutting print artist.

Researching current Lino artists. Angie Lewin is a well established print maker her limited edition prints sell for approx. £300. My Linos are very simplistic and a need to develop this technique of the coming years would maybe equate to a more improved technique.
Within my project samples, my ink developments link more to green design issues within material processes ending in a more sustainable process for designing.I researched extensively through Pinterest visual library to gain insight into contemporary visionaries within different aspects of my project (Appendix XIII)

Screen printed samples from Lino cut design.


Values and Ethics for Creative practice.

Ethical philosophy  within design imagery links to morality. Morality is a decision which out of it you get personal values giving you a sense of purpose that drives studio work and personal conduct. Empathy for others, the expansion of care, the wanting to give customers values within working practice. These were the reasons behind the narrative.As I have discussed in chapter one using textiles to articulate a cause to protect the environment using a tote bag can encourage user to in directly advertise and promote issues of ecology while wearing and shopping.    

The screen used to print onto fabric, taken from a traditional Lino print

    As describes in by Hazel Clarke "it becomes evident how design relies not only on methods and techniques, but also on fundamental ways of conceptualising and bringing about change and improvement in the world, this applies, or should apply, to textiles as it does to any other area of design. New approaches to textile design are predicted therefore not only on the 'how' and the 'what' of design but the 'why'. It can be argued that design in general is even more fundamental to human life in the twenty first century than ever before."( Jefferies.J.Wood Conroy.D.Clark.H 2018)