Appendix I: Marketing Green Issues

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Appendix I

Ecology Evolution:

Marketing Green Issues.

Extracts from my Design Journal.

Marketing ideas and current debates to encourage consumers to and viewers to seek a deeper understanding of ecology issues is part of the objective of my designing. These new and emerging strategies debates and current issues can be part of visual information on products including Wall Murals, fabrics, wall papers, tote bags and T shirts.

Hand Printed letters using old metal printing press alphabet.

The objective is to give social impact in order to make my work relevant to social needs, recognising global warming and more specifically keeping our oceans clean through conservation campaign strategies within my practical work. Connecting with a number of nongovernmental groups to encourage a deeper meaning of social change through global knowledge of various campaigns including Antarctica Ocean Sanctuary currently run by Greenpeace.

 Greenpeace is an environmental campaign organisation that is currently campaigning to prevent plastic pollution across our oceans, reducing plastic use via consumers is one way of doing this.

The Digital Revolution 

"The digital revolution and it's subsequent technologies have transformed the fashion designers work.Together they form a whole new dimension from within which to create. In particular Adobe's Photoshop and illustrator programs have placed in their hands the tools they needed to bring textile design, traditionally a separate discipline, into their own studios." (Doe.T.2013.12). Collaboration between disciplines is a key advancement in design development and so is the creative collaboration between traditional and contemporary as "Philip Delamore, director of The Fashion Digital Studio based at \London College of Fashion. As a practicing textile designer he has experienced the entire digital print revolution."Early on, I was working on digital prints as a consultant for designers.I would often have to un-digitize them- try to achieve a screen print look with the technique-because digital print was regarded as inferior and that wasn't what designers were looking for.The full blown digital aesthetics look to a long time to develop." (Doe.T.2013.12.)

Integrating  traditional and  digital textiles bridges a gap between industrial visions and traditional crafts. " One of the main issues of design is its use and how it is respected cultivated and progressed through time(product use and usability). In late industrial capitalism, designed, artifacts and the experience of them are sites through which people , to different degrees, live facets of their lives. People live and dream through design. Designed artifacts are, in this sense, materialized ideologies”(Laurel.2003.26).

As Dalke points out "Interdisciplinary is not a place to be reached but rather a commitment to a process of continually testing the value parts, experimenting with different ways they might be combined to make wholes, and using the resulting wholes to refigure the parts"(Dalke et el 2006:7).

Within my dissemination I can see links from my multi faceted project with my numerous test projects that a desire to collaborate different techniques not only to evaluate which is the most eco friendly but also to acknowledge and understand the attributes of each process within one collection in order to add interest  and uniqueness . I have learnt from my project 'Ecology Evolution' is how important the journey through researching visual imagery and theory  is as important and even more so than the actual completed achieved designs. The end products I have created linked intruitivily to the 'why',that is the desire to improve the ecology of the world through knowledge distrubution andd serve as examples of how design can inheret value and meaning for a broader subject.

"Liberty has been at the for front of commercial and art textile printing since the late nineteenth century. During that time it has collaborated with many designers, from Bill Blass to Vivienne Westwood. Emma Mawston, head designer at Liberty fabrics, beleves there is a place for a variety of techniques, so long as they are treated with equally high standards in terms of print mark and colour matching, as well as design. "I think digital printing and screen printing work wonderfully together in a collection enabling different effects and designs to be created. There are colours and tints that are not able to be created digitally only with screen printing and obviously vice versa" (Doe.T.2013.15)

Extract from Ecology Evolution Design Journal.

Image on forward pages we're created on photoshop using a basic effects button. This may well be useful for screen printing imagery on to paper and fabric.

  Adding text to explain damage via plastic pollution, lettering could be bolder using different text would work better.

Original photograph taken from aeroplane over Europe.

Photograph taken while flying across Europe.

Whale tail fabric full width plus repeated for fabric roll production.

Repeat pattern width of fabric standard 140 cms wide 200m long ideal for fabric curtains or wall paper. I have also created a number of different scales for wall paper, Muriel and also silk scarf repeat and velvet repeat for interior fabric.

 These fabrics were produced digitally through research within my dissemination I have realised even though currently Memaki digital fabric printers don't use eco conscious inks>However they use less ink than traditional print making " One factor that my determine where printing develops more generally is its environmental footprint. The digital printing process uses half the ink of screen printing methods and results in less waste being discharged.There is also no washing of screens or changing colours, so water consumption is reduced by almost half"(Doe.T.2013.13) The down side is the obsoleting aspect of machinery, new digital machines are constantly being designed for the industry , it isn't unusual for fabric companies to replace their machines every year. I am assuming their old machines would be sold off to other companies to reduce the impact on global waste.Otherwise an awful lot of machine waste finding itself in landfill and possibly inappropriate dumped in areas of the world, polluting our natural world.

Scale developments

I have chosen small repeat fabric scaled down 75% of original repeat for wall paper. I have chosen largest repeat for back velvet for cushions which has the text ’save’ the whale tail in the repeat as a large image single motif.

Digital printing onto silk.

This is the repeat whale tail repeat for the scarf in thin silk, the medium silk has run out which I wanted initially, however the thin is really floaty and light so either would have been good anyway. The repeat needs work as one side has a fatter element and when it is multi repeated it shows up as a block. This will be sorted out before finished print off. The velvet also needs washing twice and it needs to be dried naturally. I will be using my spin dryer to squeeze out any water and then a radiator to dry.

Velvet repeat whale tail.

Digital printing onto velvet.

Silk scarf fabric repeat whale tail.Using Memaki fabric printer. The printing of fabric using digital machines can for some feel a lack of spirt and individualism as described in the book Textile design in the digital age " Many devotees of traditional printing methods maintain that digital printing lacks the spirit and individuality of the more human processes. It can also miss the sincerity of print that has taken many stages to create. By way of response, designers have been enriching their digital prints with embellishment detailing and over printing." (Doe.T(2013.13).

Screen printing using photoshop.

This is the header card for my fabrics so they are displayed well as I am not submitting anything made up accept for a tote bag ,in order to try and reduce plastic use for the consumer to prevent climate change and to keep our seas and our Antarctica safe. The repeat pattern of printed baby feet which are my daughter feet printed originally in black white colour are added to photoshop with the save text which has been printed with old cast lettering from an old printing press.Put into photoshop to the scale I wanted and then added to a screen for paper which is different coarse of mesh  then for fabric printing. This was created initially onto a word doc for the Eco Evolution lettering and added to photoshop, it will also be paper packaging for tote bag and wall paper. If I have time I will create a swing ticket as well.

Section from one of my sketch books.

Developments to add to screen headers for fabric swatches and swing tickets and also wrapping packaging.

Screen for printing paper card headers for fabric swatches.

Screen print for paper and card. Using a number of colours white/cream, indigo on cream, linen/ cream,black/white,linen/ white.

Mixing colour inks for screen printing.

Linen colour/putty printing ink.

Created a really nice putty and deep navy for headers and swing tickets. Using up cycled newspaper print paper for packaging.

Printed paper with header and swing tickets.

Printed swings and header card for fabric ready for splicing. I have decided to create a eco ink swing in leather that I am up cycling from a leather sample book. I will be using the laser cutter.

Section 1 The Green Peace Story

                                            Section 2  The  ecology fight for a cleaner world

Section 3

Greenpeace International Promotion

Section 4 End of Japanese Whaling

Appendix II : Brief outline of MA Project .

                                                                                                      10

Brief Outline of MA Project

Poster for MA Show

The Poster used for the end of project show at University Lincoln.

MA studio in Design end of Degree Show June 2019.

Ecology Evolution Project

My project is about green issues, I have choice to develop my own inks for printing and have experimented with dying fabrics to find the right pigments using natural resources. This idea has come from the need for eco conscious values to be embedded into my art work.

The objective for my art work is to encourage social impact in regard to ecology issues linked to our depleting natural world within our oceans and more specifically protecting Antarctica. My point has been to use visuals to encourage consumers and viewers to seek a deeper understanding of their own carbon foot print and to change their consumer behaviour to use less single use plastics.

The main issue I have decided to use within my set work is the current climate change emergency and have choicen a Green Peace Campaign ”Antarctica Ocean Santuary”

Imagery has been based around oceans and the need to save the worlds ecology and especially the need to reduce single use plastics.

I am hoping to encourage green living and to awaken the need to protect Antarctica via the need for everyone to consider their own carbon footprint and reduce their single use plastic purchases.

I have chosen a blog to record all my developments of which print making has been my main area of interest. The blog has been converted into a book which has become the main focus of my project showing my design journey in a comprehensive format.

Book conversion from my blog.(naturesarmour.blogdpot.com)

Side view of blog to book .MA Journals:Ecology Evolution.

Inside cover of MA Journals: Ecology Evolution.

Inside of MA Journals:Ecology Evolution 

Journal pages showing sketches :design developments.

Inside pages of blog to book conversion.

MA Journal : Ecology Evolution showing publishing lay out.

MA Journals Ecology Evolution : Printing developments.

I have used natural resources in my work and believe if a product can return to the earth without too much pollution ie compostable materials, then it’s a lot less environmentally destructive than man made plastics which take hundreds of years to decompose.

My MA project is about looking at how natural resources are depleting and how ecology is developing in order to create a better future for our planet and how traditional art can be intergrated within digital technology to create new imagery that encourages consumers to think in a more eco conscious value and by doing this can help with the reduction of carbon emissions to draw down climate change to save Antarctica from disappearing.

Brief outline of my MA project proposal : Design brief extract.

Marketing  Green Issues My project is about marketing ideas and current debates to encourage consumers and viewers to seek a deeper understanding of ecology. These debates, actions and new emerging strategies can be packaged into various product ideas from Tote bags, through to the main range of fabrics, wall papers and murals. Objective for Creative Narrative The objective for my artwork is to give social impact in order to make my work relevant to social needs, recognizing global warming and more specific keeping our oceans clean through conservation campaign strategies within my practical work. One area of interest within emerging strategies for ecology is within the contemporary coalition of leading researchers, scientists and policy makers (Hawken.2018.10) who have come up with realistic and practical solutions to climate change. It is believed if all the technique are utilized and deployed collectively across the world within 30 years greenhouse gases can reverse to a level known as drawdown. The point when greenhouse gases peak and then begin to decline. I will be connecting with a number of nongovernmental environmental groups to encourage a deeper meaning of social change through global knowledge of various campaigns including Antarctica Ocean Sanctuary. Currently being discussed through action campaigns via Green Peace who I am currently a member. There are numerous projects across the world which include individual activists who are bringing awareness to the for front of society consciousness.  There are a number of key leading campaign organizations that work towards making a change within ecology issues. They are Green Peace, Friends of the Earth, RSPCB and of cause not forgetting David Attenborough are all linked to environmental awareness which are all of interest to me as a means of inspiration through my art work. The world also has numerous individuals who campaign individually to help awareness concerning climate change for example current yachtsmen and women, swimmers and movie stars/musicians/artists. Current Design Trends. The current focus that influences trends that are emerging within my area of practice relates to the need for designers working within industries to be forward thinking in their processes to create unique constantly evolving new areas of design while maintaining a good eco conscious moral strategy within personal carbon footprints. The need to constantly create new processes using unique creative parameters can affect our ecological base on earth i.e micro fibers are now polluting our oceans, plastics once new and immerging are now one of the key causes of pollution. Plastics are polluting our seas which is why the UK government has brought in charges for plastic bags. It is my challenge to prove that using natural fabrics, dyes and natural thickeners only enhances design choices for everyone involved and in turn reduce climate change and pollution. Current and Relevant Designers Specialist designer fabrics and wallpapers such as the collaborations of Damien Hurst and Mathew Williamson and their collaborative design work creates new directions in a way that continues traditional values without inhibiting new design. This is a new and emerging trend were by the different sections of the art and design world are emerging and integrating design ideas together. The main demographic of my focus of concern in terms of consumers are those people who currently interested and are motivated in creating a better pollution free world. They do this by being as eco conscious as possible. They are also interested in longevity within design choices. Throw away fashion and short-term life spam of products does not help landfill and creates more waste.  Current company labels like Timorous Beasties and the more main stream companies like Farrow & Ball and Little Green are currently influential in my art work. These companies hold a strong believe in the traditional printing techniques.                      Traditional and Classical Design Influences  Classic and Vintage design aspirations are a well-established design direction currently being developed within general trends. Trend organizations like pattern curator and WGSN link too many emerging trends in order for designers to effectively link to current relevance. I have been researching current trends via Pinterest and have collated collections within storyboard/Mood boards to show what is happening in the market place and by doing this I can predict what is going to be current moving forward. Creative Design Work I am planning on creating printed home furnishing fabrics and wall papers within 3 sections of design interpretation 1.    Photographic digital art imagery using MAC suite 2.    Traditional printing techniques lino, direct printing, screen printing 3.    An integration of de- collage contemporary and traditional including the other 2 areas above. Foe-patchwork imagery(fabric imitating traditional patch work) Reasons for these developments  is to create fresh interpretations and encourage up cycling, re using materials for a more sustainable working practice. Colour  is an important aspect of my project with an interest in warn out faded patinaed effects to create nostalgic rustic decadence using the colour blue as the main colourway. Quantity : 4 finished  designs. Fabrics with matching wall papers. Swing tags/Tote bags for all of the above with added information in regard to eco systems and endangered species. Areas of design enquiry will be based around scale (using the small ,medium and big design theory) Incorporating traditional and contemporary pattern repeat.  Traditional staggered effects versus more contemporary pattern layout (kaleidoscope). Over scaling and juxtaposing within a de-collage effect incorporating contemporary print technology and traditional print.

The Audience

My audience is people who are interested in eco conscious lifestyles, they enjoy conservation and they are traditional within their design concepts. However they are also looking for a new contemporary edge to their consumer choices while at the same time holding on to traditional values to add longevity to their purchases.

The impact I hope my study will bring to my audience is to reconsider and evaluate what is needed moving forward for people to be aware and challenge climate change. I will be looking at new emerging studies and consumer choices and reasoning to work towards a better ecological future.

“People are passionate about protecting the earth, passionate about peace, passionate about positive change through action. Together we are unstoppable”(Greenpeace .org.uk accessed July.2018). I will be developing contacts through meeting in regard to issues that need to be challenged and find out what?,Why?How?

There are numerous artists, musicians and actors who are campaigning for environmental changes to reverse green house gases.

Kurt Jackson for example has previously worked with Green Peace in order to create a competition to come up with valued ideas for eco conscious solutions.

There are also independent people who have chosen to meet the demands of ecology values and are currently protesting via sport accomplishments i.e Lewis Pugh who is currently swimming the length of the channel. He is campaigning for stronger restrictions on fishing and is currently pushing awareness of plastic pollution. He also wants 30% of our oceans to be conservation areas.

A very recent sky news report called the plastic whale shows the plight of many marine animals.

  “Thomas Moore, Science Correspondent

A stranded whale that died with a stomach full of plastic has a message for us: we need to act.

Our household rubbish is polluting every single part of our oceans, at every possible depth.

And it is killing our marine life.

The Cuvier's beaked whale feeds far out to sea at depths of a mile or more - and yet one died with dozens of plastic bags in its stomach.

The animal, which stranded near Bergen, Norway, had mistaken so many bags for food that its stomach was stuffed with plastic.

This is not the first animal to die because of widespread plastic pollution - and it won't be the last.”  (news.sky.com)

This sort of news reel and documentary can only encourage a new customer base of people who wish to carry tote bags made of cotton as opposed to plastic bags. They will also enjoy eco conscious designed products of different kinds incorporating their concerns for environmental and conservational issues.

Below a brief documentary on the effects of plastic pollution.

A brief outline of my design project showing a section of my MA Proposal brief.

Outcomes of Project Brief My MA Major Project brief will be using oceans and marine life as a theme in order to make more people aware of the pressures that our human activities have on our oceans. Using visuals with information through my practical word and my written will help me evaluate and extend my current knowledge and the knowledge of others. I can measure this impact via online feedback via my blog and also some small surveys including one to one interviews discussions with selected people. ·         I will use qualitive design research. I will be adding social impact by design for environmental reasoning. ·         Help conserve our natural habituates is extremely important and links today’s current affairs debates and actions. ·         Expeditions via people like Jacque Cousteau and his grandson Philip Cousteau marine biologists are important researchers in order for the world to understand were ecology issues stands today. ·           To make changes to keep our natural habitats natural and without pollution. ·         Researching the profound effects that mankind is having on our oceans links closely with our ecology needs for the future. ·          Preventing green house gases and pollution to save our endangered species is essential. ·         . If I can highlight those species that are most endangered in my print making practice and incorporate information I can begin to make small changes through visual interpretations. Oceans are particularly vulnerable to human activities, delicate eco systems can easily be wiped out due to pollution and over fishing. With the advances of technology fishing within our oceans is increasing and unfortunately this means a reduction in fish and mammals which could equal more and more species becoming endangered. For example tuna fish are becoming more and more sparse within our oceans has given rise to tuna farms in our oceans. Restrictions on size of fish including shellfish is one way to restrict over fishing, however these guidelines are not always kept. Visually I am hoping that my practical work will hit accord commercially within a contemporary arena. Keeping within my traditionalist design ethos to help consumers become more aware of current ecology issues within our oceans, including our very important Antarctica landscape. ·         Labeling and using written information around images will be important to get the conservation message across. ·          Using natural fabrics and traditional dyes and inks for traditional printing will also impact on consumer values and concerns. ·         I have chosen to use Blooms taxonomy to help me with my observational analysis of my work, which I will incorporate into my sketchbooks and my blog.

Chapter III Green Design : The Future

                                                                                                                

                                                                                                        8   

   Chapter III : Green Design: The Future

”Analogy:Climate Change the New Gravity”.

The Narrative is explained by Ingold as "To tell a story then, is to relate, in narrative, the occurrences of the past, retracing a path through the world that others,recursively picking up threads of past lives, can follow in the process of spinning out their own.But rather as in looping or knitting, the tread being spun now and the thread picked up from the past are both of the same yarn. There is no point at which the story ends and life begins."(Ingold 2007:90)


  

"The importance of major progress in designing for sustainability and resilience is indisputable, and the arguments are highly commendable. However do they go far enough?" Are we still focused on our backyards rather than the needs of our fellow human beings worldwide? Have we yet grasped the level of adaptability that is required not only to protect us in the present, but to future-proof the built environment for generations to come? And what must governments, professional bodies and indeed individuals do to bring the total paradigm shift that is so urgently needed."

(http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com.proxy.library.lincoln.ac.uk/doi/10.1002/ad.2268/abstract-byline)

I have taken this quote from an article on line called Aim High:Pressing for radical and global Approach to sustainable design by Nastasi. John.
Environmental social and economic delicate global systems need to be addressed. New solutions of a need for ever increasing green issues for sustainable outcomes are necessary today and for the future. Identifying other drivers of consumerism i.e beauty, morality, humanity and well being. Finding a wider spirit of human endeavour which reaches the masses, in order to make environmental changes in problem based waste ie single use plastics, throw away fashion. Fashion consumables are using up aprox 10% of all global emissions.
"The new and innovative sits within a continuum of practices and ideas. Through them it becomes evident how design relies not only on methods and techniques, but also on fundamental ways of conceptualising and bringing about change and improvement in the world; this applies, or should apply, to textiles as it does to any other area of design. New approaches to textile design are predicted therefore not only on the 'how' and the 'what' of design , but also on the 'why'. It must acknowledge and integrate technology, while also attending to issues of excess and waste in the face of dwindling resources and growing populations, and of inequality and exploitation across the globe. For textiles , this creating new possibilities and collaborations that are bringing together previously disparate practices and interests, such as sciences, technology, biology, health and well-being, as well as the social sciences and a range of creative practices. It is also leading to the re-invigoration of textile crafts and traditions, not only to instil new design aesthetics, but also to add to the cultural value of cloth by expanding and enhancing it's meanings and relationships with people's lives on a variety of levels.(Jefferies J.Wood Conroy.D.Clarke.H(2018.17).

Processes of design are intertwining within different art and design practices and within different processes modern and traditional.Finding a connection with the driving force within sustainability and the need to draw down carbon emissions us a key design factor within today's designs and those of the future.

” There is also a new era of mass innovation and creative collaboration that has been made possible by Web 2.0 and to a future in which the identities of the professional and consumer producer are becoming increasingly blurred”(Jefferies.J.2018.4)

                                                                                                             Conclusion

Through my research I have learnt from this project that there is an embodied relationship between making and thinking connected to psychoanalysis within different types of art and design parameters. As it is written in the Chapter Making Known with the book ‘The hand book of Textile Culture”This is sometimes described as ‘tacit knowledge’ or ‘skill’ in which the neural pathways of kinaesthetic memory serve as pathways for unconscious thought, fantasy and meaning.It is the work of ‘praxis’ to authorise and acknowledge this silent,’tacit’ knowledge, which can otherwise atrophy like soft logic under the deformation of the more conventional hard logic of authored discourse.”

The need for designers to be interdisciplinary and collaborative is clear throughout my project I have not only looked at the ‘how’ and the ‘what’ but more about the ‘why’ in connection to our need to be sustainable within our lives and within are working practices.

                                        Recycling

up cycled old pennies.

Up-cycled leather tags made on laser cutter

Leather swing tickets made from up cycled leather from an old sample book.

“Take, make, waste-the modus operandi of the industrial era. Take the resources needed, make them into things, discard the by-product and, eventually, consign the used goods to waste. Today, a new circular way of thinking is beginning to replace that logic. In nature, cycles abound. Water and nutrients move in closed loops, and there is no waste.

Instead, discards become resources. Drawing on nature’s wisdom, circular business models look at old goods and scrap materials as valuable resources for new products. They begin to redirect the linear flows that start with raw materials and end at landfills and incinerators, making the industrial system function more like an ecosystem instead.” (Hawkin.P2017.160)

“Recycling products via the companies customers when they have finished with them is a new emerging concept. “Patagonia collects ‘worn wear’ for repair, if too far gone, for recycling. But voluntarily taking such responsibility is unusual. Formalising it encourages companies to think now about what will happen then and make their products longer lasting, easier to fix, and as recyclable as possible. In other words, while recycling happens at end of life, it is best considered from the beginning”(Hawkin.P2017.161)

There are numerous quadrium’s of different solutions to negotiate through when making decisions about the best green issues to respond to which through my experimental project briefs I found different features within each process some better than others, some in development fazes that may become more sustainable in the future.(Appendix VX)

Through my research and in particular when developing my questionnaire for a small qualitative survey(Appendix XIII) I  noted how reluctant most people were about filling in a form that most were unsure of what was the best answers where or where unsure what conclusions to make. The main verbal feedback I have found from this project within green issues is that the solutions for many people are distinguishable however most people explain how difficult it is to avoid single use plastics. Whether it is due to the amount that is still actually circulating in the market place or that unwrapped is usually handmade and more expensive.

Using their own fabric carriers was something most people are wishing to achieve on a regular basis if not sometimes or more often, than not.

What I have found that individuals can do is become a movement.” As Mc Kibben writes:’ Movements are what take five or ten percent of people and make them decisive- because in a world where apathy rules, five or ten percent is an enormous number’ Movements change how we think and how we see the world, creating more evolved social norms.(Hawkin.P 2017.216)

Online distribution of ideas, solutions,  designs and movements are changing the way we think and interact.  “A potential effect of online distribution is the blurring of artistic boundaries, in some cases, between producer and consumer; in others, between amateur and professional. More over, the relative ease of digital creation and online distribution and feedback may lead to production by the masses that rivals production for the masses. The outcome of these developments may be that we are entering a new era for all the arts.(Jafferies.J 2018.4

Future and emerging trends within sustainable design include the following ideas(Appendix XVII)

The future of campaigning and action without relaying on governments is fundamentally important for the future of our natural environment.(https://www.facebook.com/aokfanpage/accessed 25.08.2019)

While researching ethics and philosophy I found an extract from a academic paper helps explains ethical social behaviour

. "Combining notions of ecological virtue and citizen science, being at one develops an eco-praxis that sees human beings as active members/partners in a creative, participatory universe in which human and planetary flourishing are co-existent and based upon recognition of the facts of social and natural existence. The value-centred eco-philosophy acknowledges that human beings exist in a dialectical interplay of dependence, independence and interdependence. "( Peter Critchley Being and Place http://pcritchley2.wix.com/beingandplace)(www.academia.edu/.com accessed 25.08.2019.11.45pm)