Green Issues in Design : Introduction

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                                                   Introduction

Design responsibilities: Within this assignment I am posing to unpack the needs and desires required in todays world of responsible design perspectives, including in particular the needs of our planet in order for human mankind to find a sustainable future. My project is an exploration of the natural world, looking at the way natures resources are depleting and how ecology is developing and where it should be heading to create a better future for our planet. Integrating traditional and digital art to create new textiles and wall art. I did this by developing five test projects. My reasoning was to take a traditionalist practice and integrate it within digital imagery. To create new imagery that encourages consumers to think in a more eco conscious value and by doing this can help with the reduction of carbon emissions to draw down climate change to save Antarctica from disappearing. The need to experiment and resolve certain design aspects of my project was also inherent with my research including skills in natural dying and eco printing inks to evoke a concern and direction for better eco conscious green vales within my design practice.

The objectives for my exploratory projects is to encourage social impact in regard to ecology issues linked to our depleting natural world within visual impacts .Choosing to also develop natural dyes and inks( a forgotten skill which can easily be rekindled as the norm through education and knowledge distribution). My online blog has helped me with this task and became a crucial part of my final project appraisal.(Appendix II,V)

Blog introduction page(www.naturesarmour.blogspot.accessed.June.2019)

My point is to use materials and practical awareness of ecology-based practices to encourage consumers and viewers to seek a deeper understanding of their own carbon footprint.To change their consumer behavior to use less single use plastics and to also be aware of other issues to decrease carbon emissions for a better ecology future for our planet. I have chosen questions like : How much of the planets resources does it take to make a product and what are the key impacts on the environment are important?

What are the best green solutions within designing and what are the implications of global warming, pollution, plastics in our oceans, ice caps melting.

What does it all mean and how can we as individuals make a difference?

“My first plan of action was to look at my own consumption of single use plastics and see how I could make a positive change to reduce my own carbon footprint” I thought. By questioning myself I formulated a series of test projects to see what questions and answers I could study and develop. AppendixI/ II explains my proposal in more detail.The project brief in short, with this plan came a comprehensive journal which I developed in sketch book form, journalizing in leather bound diaries and actual practical work of which I added in a comprehensive why to an online blog which became the major driving force of my exploratory projects. Which was then printed in book form with added links using current phone and ipad technology, known as a QR code(Appendix II). This process of enquiry and journalism has been beneficial to my design practice of which I will continue to develop, not only does it help me it also allows me to share my beliefs and those of a bigger community online and through word of mouth.

Sketch books developed over MA course.

Note books
Sketch books developed during MA project.

Extract from blog (www.naturesarmour.blogspot.com.accessed June2019)

A Retrospective View.

In order to contextualize my current creative direction. I believe it's important to take a reflective view point moving in order to move forward with my project developments looking back on my previous career as a knitwear designer within a eco conscious designer lead handcrafted knitwear business. Designing soft accessories for a global market including customers Paul Smith Ltd, Burberry's, Harrods, Selfridges, Blue Marin, Sax's 5th Avenue.

Pret-a-porter fashion show

images from previous fashion business.

Fashion shoot for Good House keeping-Malta

Marketing image for Original Sample.

Fashion Show BA hons Knitwear Design 1987 Business News Clips and Documentary of previous business

Green Issues in Design : Ecology Evolution: Abstract

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Abstract

“The epidemic psychosis of our time is the lie of believing we have no ethical obligation to our planetary home.”  Theodore Roesak

.(https://libquotes.com/theodore-roszak/works/the-voice-of-the-earth.accessed Aug.2019)

The reasoning behind this book has come from a comprehensive journal documenting a project brief for a Masters Degree at University Lincoln of which extracts can be viewed in (Appendix I /II)

Global warming, also referred to as climate change, is the observed century-scale rise in the average temperature of the Earth's climate system and its related effects. Multiple lines of scientific evidence show that the climate system is warming.^] Many of the observed changes since the 1950s are unprecedented in the instrumental temperature record, and in paleoclimate proxy records of climate change over thousands to millions of years.^{(http://thetechnews.com/2017/07/26/global-warming-scenarios//.accessed 25/08/2019.11.28am)}

Castro trophic tipping point of Global Climate Change. The point were the planets biodiversity, natural resources for energy, climate change and the eradication of our polar regions of our planet will reach us into an era were we will have lost the natural resources to service the human race, a world of non-biodiversity.

“This is already happening with the effects of serious weather changes, alterations in global carbon cycles, eco systems degradations, mass extinction, increases in demands of water food and energy needs. Potentially we can change the devastation we are in by changing our habits, it is a planetary emergency to avoid a global catastrophe. However many scientists believe change will never happen as the world is run via monetary values” (Appendix III:transcript Ten Billion years Director:Peter Webber:writer Stephen Emmott).

Therefore it is every bodies responsibility to live sustainable lives, just like it is our responsibility to put litter in a bin “consume less and strive to be carbon neutral”

The Anthropecene;Making sense of the climate change 

                     A good short definition of the Anthropocene is explained in (Appendix XII)


                                                 The Project Brief MA Design.

The story of our natural habitats and wildlife through the eyes of an ecology-based design perspective to develop and debate strategies and outcomes for a better and greener world thorough our own personal lifestyle choices is of what I’m trying to develop and analyze as a designer and a consumer.(Appendix II)

"Purposely looking at ways to reduce the impact on the environment by choosing more eco sound production processes, materials and longevity of design principles to create the most economically ecology effective products or services."

                               Looking closely at my dissemination development

Initially I created imagery to add to a tote bag as a reason to promote environmental and conservational issues connected to plastic pollution of our oceans.
Semiotics is an interesting  research value within  product design imagery "Semiotics definition, the study of signs and sign -using behaviour. it was defined by one of its founders, the swiss linguist Ferninand De Saussure, as the study of the life of signs within society and include emojis, road signs and corporate logos" described in the Britannica dictionary.(https://www.britannica.com/science/semiotics.accessed Aug.2019)Tote bags for shopping have traditionally been used to advertise company logos brands, statements connected to human nature ie I love ?, be green, save the planet etc.
A product with a design on it to add social impact, is about communicating  above and beyond its function. 
However in this case a tote bag has a function on the basis that it removes single use plastic use when it is used in connection to shopping and directly links to the concerns of  the campaign advertised.  Tote bags can be added and used to promote proto types within the range of fabrics and wall art created and the philosophy is that tote bags can be added to many ranges of products to exclude plastic use within consumer trading. Donations from sales could can also go to environmental campaigns including Antarctica Ocean Sanctuary and therefore act as advertisement for social change and the use of raising funds. These products can also be used as part of a package when purchasing from many ranges (removing the need of unnecessary packaging).

Slogan used on the back of Tote bags to promote Antarctica from depleting and it's eventual total loss of ice caps.                    The Green Consumer The green consumer and green activist is someone who is passionate about ecology and concerned with saving the planets natural environment. As Green peace Explains “People are passionate about peace, passionate about positive change through action. Together we are unstoppable.(GreenPeace.org.uk accessed July.2018).Research suggests that brands that establish a reputation for sustainability can inherit a younger millennial consumer base and build on their reputation for sustainable products. One aspect is even more clearer is that people wanting sustainable products also expect quality and durability within their purchases. As the guardian points out , explaining recent governmental reports on consumer behaviour.(Appendix XIV)

Green Issues in Design :Acknowledgements

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      Green issues in Design.   Acknowledgements.

                         

I would like to thank all those people responsible for helping me through my exploratory project brief discussing green issues within my MA Design course work.

Considering design making, design practice and consumer awareness for a better future for our planet. Striving for a sustainable future, I would like to acknowledge a special mention to Felicity Shum who not only helped me on a practical level within print making but also within a mentoring role and friendship ,while I was processing through my academic philosophy and design practical work.

The main issues of concern within my project is based around current climate change issues and concerns for our oceans and wildlife which are currently under threat. While progressing through the different aspects of the courses curriculum I chose to specialize within a Green Peace Campaign “Antarctica Ocean Sanctuary.

I would like to thank Green Peace for their current and past climate change campaigning including their desires to ban whaling. Through their untiring approach from their early beginnings which through my own life experiences, I have watched and respected for many years.

May the diligence and struggles of climate change campaigning continue until the world becomes a global sanctuary without pollution and destructive practice via human mankind’s desire for monetary gain.

I would also like to make a special mention to Prince Charles and the Princes Trust for making my independent career possible allowing me to live a life style choice that incorporated sustainable fashion choices for my customer base and myself. Allowing me to be part of a new generation of eco conscious designers leading the way to improve production processes to include handcrafted items using natural resources reducing waste and improving choices for the consumer.

May Holden nee Leithhead (my Grandmother)

My grandmother May Leithhead fell walking in the Scottish highlands who influenced my desires and dreams for a natural world paying attention to my own impacts on the environment. She was an advocate to environmental concerns for our natural environment.

Appendix 1:Includes Extracts from Design Journal

The Green Peace Story Documentary: The Ecology fight for a cleaner World :You tube : The Green Peace Promotion : Short Clip You tube : End to Japanese Whaling in Antarctica :Youtube

Green Issues : Design and Lifestyle Choices

Eco Evo:Green Issues

Images of MA Show and MA Journal.

By Victoria Meadows

MA Design : Dissertation 

                                                     History of Conservation of Nature


The beginning of conservation and respect for nature can be seen through history starting from early history of mankind when nature’s wildlife and seasons were incorporated into early religions i.e Sun gods, sacrifices to improve weather changes and harvests. Customs and ancient ceremonies to pay homage to the earth’s natural surroundings can be seen through different cultures around the world.
Specific laws were created in medieval times to protect woodland for the pleasure of nobility and royals. After the Norman conquest large areas of land were annexed using forest laws.
Some of the first conservation areas of the early medieval period were granted mainly so that landowners and royalty could hunt freely. Knowing there would not be any depletion of game in their private woods by making it illegal to poach on the kings lands

Forest laws were extended in the 18^th century called the black law, hanging people for encroaching on to Royal hunting grounds. These laws extended to overseas colonies of which the remnants are used to create conservation areas today. Re wilding is a relatively old theory which is being used today to create new Natural areas of land to help reach  drawdown to prevent global warming
Conservation needs of today go far more than previously has ever seen. Individuals can become a movement of people activism, campaigning and demanding change through group discussions and using the world web. I have challenged this theory through my blog "NaturesArmour,blogspot.com and through my dissemination I added my blog to social media, it is also currently life on line. I have received enough feedback to increase my page reviews by adding to community blogsites to increase awareness of climate change, lifestyle choices and green design strategies within design.



                                 Environmental Impact of Humans

Historically humans have been having an impact on our environment since evolution evolved our planet and homo Sapiens became the super power race against most predators. When as hunters and gathers humans started to farm and domesticate animals we can see climate change being effected by mankind’s lifestyle. 


During the late 19^th century within Industrial Revolution a number of Artists and critics voiced their concerns. In regard to pollution. (“If only the geologists would let me alone, I could do very well, but those dreadful Hammer’s! I hear the dink of them at the end of every cadence of the Bible verses”.(John Ruskin, letter to Henry Acland 1851).
 As the textile designer, poet and social activist William Morris explains the need that "Nature and History Morris asserted were, or at least ought to be, the two great teachers of mankind. This statement shows in part Morris's environmentist values and is connected to the pre-Raphaelite art movement that includes the aesthetic movement. His hatred for the industrial revolution is well documented. When researching textile history we can see great changes during the industrial revolution created by Britain's technical innovations resulting in social change.

                                          

        Textile Technologies/Handmade

 Within the twentieth and twenty-first century we are seeing new transformations of design, manufacture and consumer interaction. As it is explained in The Handbook of Textile Culture "In  a post-industrial culture the artisanal, material cultures once marginalized as lacking the authority of symbolic meaning, or the capacity for abstract thinking, are becoming reconsidered as a source of knowledge. Integrating the techne-technique and technologies of manufacturer by hand and machine". A new collaboration of the old and the new, techniques, philosophies and theories of knowledge. 


                                  

        Design Choices and Lifestyle Issues

“The Romantic movement which included aestheticism were protesting over the destruction of idyllic rural life for a world of dark Satanic Mills written in William Blake’s 1804 poem.” (Lewis and Maslin.2018.206). One of the earliest environmental needs based action campaigns was created by the artist/poet Sir William Blake. He started an organization called the coal smoke abatement society which was founded in Richmond in 1898 which resulted in the smoke abatement Act including soot, ash and gritty particles.

Another well known campaign that ended in a riot was in Nottinghamshire when “artisanal textile workers broke machines to defend their wages against further declines. Known as the Luddites they began in Arnold, Nottingham, on 11^th March 1811, with over two thousand people marching and then smashing sixty-eight spinning frames”.(Lewis and Maslin,2018.206). 
Scientific revolution sprung into the new industrial world. An example of this is when in 1824 Joseph Aspdin patented a chemical process known as Portland cement which has since revolutionized building techniques. Electricity, the invention of the light bulb and the use of fossil fuels have contributed to today’s global warming.

A lot of new knowledge came out of the 19^th century including Darwin’s theory of evolution which set religious philosophy against scientists in fact Darwin did not publish his papers due to concerns via ridicule from religious leaders.

"In their seminal work, Cloth and Human Experience, Weiner and Schneider(1991) remark that 'complex' moral and sexuality, find ready expression through cloth. Indeed they argue, 'cloth has further organizational of social and political life', evoking ideas of tying or bringing together many different kinds of publics whether through the banners of the Suffragettes and Trade Unions or the wrapping of the fences at Greenham Common, or the laying down of Aids quilt or through addressing issues and relations that are not pre-given through kinship but are produced in gatherings and cooperations." (Jefferies.J.Wood Conroy.D.Clark.H(2018)The hand book of textile Culture.Bloomsbury.)


              

                                   Carbon Dioxide Spike

 Scientists are working across the globe

 researching how environmental strategies across the globe are being carried out in order to keep current and develop new emerging  techniques to reverse global warming. 

http://climate.nasa.gov/evidence(14.08.2019 3.00pm)this graph is based on the comparison of atmospheric samples contained in ice cores and more recent direct measurements, provides evidence that atmospheric C02, has increased since the industrial revolution.

   Ocean Theme

Oceans and sea creatures have been depicted within art and design since ancient Greeks and Romans and other ancient cultures, tribes and religions. I have chosen to use oceans, wildlife, natural flora, nautical imagery as my focus in order to improve knowledge of conservation and marine ecology of our oceans. The oceans contain a huge variety of life recent estimations conclude their are up to 2 million species found in and around coral reefs, the sea produces around half of all oxygen we breath( thanks to phytoplankton, tiny single cell ocean plants). The ocean also sequences large amounts of dangerous carbon dioxide. The ocean regulates our climate, cool waters soak up heat from the sun, they are a big part of our life support system. It is estimated that that 8 million tonnes of plastic waste is dumped in our oceans and it is set to double by 2025

Environmentalists

Ocean biologist Jacque Cousteau (1910-1997) was an inspiration when I was growing up and also for many people interested in ocean environmental and conservation issues.



Recently Jaques Cousteau’s grandson has been part of a series of documentaries highlighting environmental and conservation issues of our planets oceans. He specializes in oceanography which is looking into scientific aspects of our oceans to better understand what is happening due to pollution and global warming issues.

His grandson has recently also highlighted concerns in regard to melting ice gaps in Antarctica and has explained present forecasts are not accurate.

This graph by Nasa on line shows up to date figures going back to 1979.

                  
                                                                A clip from CNN News on Jacque Cousteau

Eco Printing Ink

Squeezy showing ink consistency.

Mini screen used for fabric swatches for eco ink developments.

            Ecology Evolution 

A brief section taken from my journal to explain some of the project concerns and issues I have been developing as part of my dissemination review.

The eco ink I have been developing needs a bit more developing. On small prints it works great on larger areas it tends to fade in areas. Therefore it’s not as coherent as I would expect. The up side to this is that it may well be a consistency problem which is easily fixed, more seaweed extract when being made. It could do with being less runny, it would make printing easier as well. I have added made two fade as part of the wearing scheme for this product as is the case for indigo denim jeans, wearing and fading is part of the products nature.

Indigo eco ink print ,hand made ink.

eco ink showing printing errors, rippling of fabric

Slightly un even, could be that the fabric was a bit creased more weight could have been used. However a thicker consistency of ink may well correct this problem.

The current alternative would be to buy eco printing ink and process designs this way until a better hand made ink is finalised. 

Eco ink purchased on line.

Eco ink which I have purchased as an alternative currently while I develop my own printing ink to a standard that would work on larger prints.

Undyed linen sample showing faded out effect of dye.

3 machine washes, this has faded the most likely due to the weave.

Calico 3 washes has stayed fixed the best out of all the samples.

Linen Tote bag

Linen tote bag small with pom poms.

 lining onside panels needs dark pattern extended.

undyed calico Tote bag.

Large linen tote bag.

Inside I have printed carbon footprint fabric. The side panels would need to have a longer strip of dark repeat due to the 3d element of the design requiring more repeat so that it follows the same length to create a straight line of print instead of it staggering .

Commercial wall papers.

Commercial wall papers for promoting the protection of Antarctica.

Commercial wall paper to create a value in regard to green issues and how to make a difference to protect Antartica by reducing climate change by changing life styles to encourage the reduction in single use plastics and other reducing and saving measures within individual lives.

These wall papers are designed for campaign office for climate change, libraries, schools colleges, universities and retail outlets ie coffee shops and cinemas.
The wall papers could also be used in marketing campaigns to promote eco evo products.

Carbon footprint wall paper

Lazer Cutting

Laser Cutting upcycled leather A4 size sheets to add information on tote bag design.

Using the words Eco Evo (Ecology Evolution), Eco ink representing the eco hand made ink that has been used on the product.

And M2 Fade( made to fade ) introducing the consumer to a deeper meaning of the product and how it is made.

This label has a natural error through the process which adds a patined effect, worn and weathered which is the look I’m looking for for this design.

The colours to be printed are navy , black, biscuits.

The laser machine is very technical and a technician is needed for this job.The image below shows the laser bed which is approx A4 insize

up cycled leather swatches.

Laser bed with leather before cutting.

Computer needs the soft ware Coral for this machine.
Leather needs to be laid flat and put into place.This machine needs to be watched throughout production and needs to be stopped if it gets to smoky.
Up cycled leather from an old leather colour swatch book possibly for leather upholstery.

Leather tags.

Completed leather tags for tote bag.These could do with pressing to flatten them. The heat from the laser cutter has heated up the leather and shrunk areas when printing.

Preparing MA hand in 20th May 2019

The beginning of my final hand in box, I’m using an ecru fabric box. I have a number of fabric swatches, wall Muriel remaining to add is a tote bag, maybe a smaller tote and a different colour way. I will try packaging tote with a paper wrap around. Needed to complete some wallpapers to match fabrics, also need to test inks that I have made onto swatch fabric.

Tote Bag Fabrics and colourways

Ecru calico fabric swatches

Linen fabric searches for Tote bag. Indigo navy/ white. Natural undyed linen/indigo nsvy .

Sample of completed tote bag.

Indigo tote bag front image.

Back of your printed message to encourage people to use less single use plastics.

Hand made Pom Poms

Detail on tote bag, up cycled penny, cotton pom poms and leather tags.

I have made my pom poms by hand using a traditional method using cotton yarn and wool. Crocheting a strap and crocheting poms together linking to tote bag using a small gold clasp and loops. These loops need to be soldered as I have test worn a tote bag and the metal loops stretch out and poms fall off, its the same with the old pennies.